The science
The Ultra cream's design rests on the best-established mechanism in moisturizer science: occlusion. A 2024 comprehensive review in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology on petroleum jelly summarised more than a century of evidence that petrolatum reduces transepidermal water loss more effectively than any other topical agent, penetrates the outer stratum corneum to support its own lipid organisation, and has one of the lowest rates of irritation and sensitisation of any cosmetic ingredient. Placed ninth in this formula and paired with microcrystalline wax, it is the reason the cream holds moisture through a dry, heated night where the standard Soothing cream would not.
The emollients beneath the seal matter too. A 2012 study in Skin Research and Technology examined how various oils penetrate and influence the skin barrier in vivo, finding that lighter, skin-compatible lipids integrate with stratum corneum lipids and improve hydration and barrier measures rather than simply sitting on top; squalane and meadowfoam seed oil, which supply this cream's plant-derived lipid phase, belong to that category, and meadowfoam's long-chain, highly stable fatty acids also explain why a rich cream with a modest antioxidant load keeps well. A 2025 review in the International Journal of Dermatology of basic emollients for xerosis in atopic dermatitis found that combinations of humectants and occlusives of exactly this kind consistently improved dryness scores and barrier function across clinical studies, with vehicle richness matched to severity.
The soothing arm relies on panthenol, whose benefits for barrier-impaired and irritated skin are well documented, and betaine, an osmolyte that stabilises cell hydration under osmotic stress and has supportive but smaller evidence. Beta-glucan and centella are present at trace levels after the fragrance and should be read as marketing continuity with the rest of the line rather than as active doses. No independent test of this specific cream has been published; for an occlusive-emollient formula of this composition, none is needed to explain its effect, and the science supports both the design and the narrow, winter-dry-skin use for which Chando sells it.
References 3 ShowHide
- Petroleum jelly: A comprehensive review of its history, uses, and safety — Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2024)
- In vivo investigations on the penetration of various oils and their influence on the skin barrier — Skin Research and Technology (2012)
- Basic Emollients for Xerosis Cutis in Atopic Dermatitis: A Review of Clinical Studies — International Journal of Dermatology (2025)