EltaMD AM Restore Moisturizer
Everything behind the verdicts on this product: the rule that fired for each concern, the three answers and the documents they rest on, every study on the row with the date it was opened, and the versions of the tables that produced them. Nothing here is edited by hand; it is generated from the same records the verdicts are.
The scaleRecommendedGoodSupportingEarly evidenceNot for thisAvoidhow it works
Engine 5.2.0 · rules 0.5.1 · evidence table ev-2026.10-r231 · computed October 13, 2026 · how we decide · the evidence table · the anchors
for Excess Oiliness
Niacinamide has trial-level evidence for excess oiliness but no guideline or regulatory standing yet — promising, short of a recommendation; the other actives here are not yet assessed for it.
The lead active has at least one trial behind it for the concern but no guideline or regulatory standing yet, and is present at a working level. Short of a recommendation.
- Rule
- R9p → Promising. An active with early or mechanistic evidence only; declared at a working strength, or a labelled active or at a plausible but undeclared level; the product’s category job is not a recognised companion to the concern; moderate or strong evidence dots on the carrier’s row.
q1 = plausible · q2 = adequate | plausible · supportive = false · strength = moderate | strong
Why this rule exists: 0.5.0: 'Unproven' beside three filled dots read as one question answered twice with opposite words (7,018 rows). The chip measures standing, the dots measure trial volume; where the row carries at least one RCT or a tier-2 source (moderate dots) and the active is present at a working level, the honest word is Promising. Unproven is reserved for plausible-standing rows with limited or weak evidence, or an under-dosed form. Same rank as Unproven — a bet either way; the dots order them.
Rule R9p decided 4,872 verdicts across the catalog; “Promising” is the verdict on 4,872 of 45,446. The full register. - Carrying active
- Niacinamide
- 1 · Standing
- Plausible — trials support it
- 2 · Form
- Plausible — concentration not declared; read from the position in the ingredient list
Studied range: 2%, from the trials on the row; needs leave-on contact; judge it after about 8 weeks - 3 · Tolerability
- Gentle
- Evidence dots
- Moderate evidence
Row checked against its sources on July 17, 2026 (evidence table ev-2026.10-r231). - What readers report
- No reviews read yet for this product. Shown beside the verdict; never blended into it.
- Verdict since
- September 5, 2026 (unchanged across rebuilds since then)
The studies and documents on the row
- The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production — Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy (2006), opened July 16, 2026
- Guidelines of care for the management of acne vulgaris — Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2024), opened July 16, 2026
← Back to the verdict All excess oiliness products → Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
for Large Pores
Niacinamide has trial-level evidence for large pores but no guideline or regulatory standing yet — promising, short of a recommendation; the other actives here are not yet assessed for it.
The lead active has at least one trial behind it for the concern but no guideline or regulatory standing yet, and is present at a working level. Short of a recommendation.
- Rule
- R9p → Promising. An active with early or mechanistic evidence only; declared at a working strength, or a labelled active or at a plausible but undeclared level; the product’s category job is not a recognised companion to the concern; moderate or strong evidence dots on the carrier’s row.
q1 = plausible · q2 = adequate | plausible · supportive = false · strength = moderate | strong
Why this rule exists: 0.5.0: 'Unproven' beside three filled dots read as one question answered twice with opposite words (7,018 rows). The chip measures standing, the dots measure trial volume; where the row carries at least one RCT or a tier-2 source (moderate dots) and the active is present at a working level, the honest word is Promising. Unproven is reserved for plausible-standing rows with limited or weak evidence, or an under-dosed form. Same rank as Unproven — a bet either way; the dots order them.
Rule R9p decided 4,872 verdicts across the catalog; “Promising” is the verdict on 4,872 of 45,446. The full register. - Carrying active
- Niacinamide
- 1 · Standing
- Plausible — trials support it
- 2 · Form
- Plausible — concentration not declared; read from the position in the ingredient list
Studied range: 4%, from the trials on the row; needs leave-on contact; judge it after about 8 weeks - 3 · Tolerability
- Gentle
- Evidence dots
- Moderate evidence
Row checked against its sources on July 17, 2026 (evidence table ev-2026.10-r231). - What readers report
- No reviews read yet for this product. Shown beside the verdict; never blended into it.
- Verdict since
- September 5, 2026 (unchanged across rebuilds since then)
The studies and documents on the row
- The clinical anti-aging effects of topical kinetin and niacinamide in Asians: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled, split-face comparative trial — Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2007), opened July 16, 2026
- The efficacy and adverse effects of treatment options for facial pores: A review article — Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2023), opened July 16, 2026
- Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation — Antioxidants (Basel) (2021), opened July 16, 2026
← Back to the verdict All large pores products → Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
for Dullness
Hyaluronic Acid has early or mechanistic evidence for dullness — a reasonable bet, not a recommendation; the other actives here are not yet assessed for it.
The lead active has early or mechanistic evidence only, or is present below a working level. A reasonable bet, not a recommendation.
- Rule
- R9 → Unproven. An active with early or mechanistic evidence only; the product’s category job is not a recognised companion to the concern.
q1 = plausible · supportive = false
Why this rule exists: Plausible-tier actives alone do not earn a recommendation, and 'not for this' would overstate the case against them. 'Unproven' with the evidence dots lets the reader judge the bet (added 0.2.0 after the first shadow run put a 10% niacinamide serum at 'not for this' for hyperpigmentation). 0.5.0: the closing clause reads the other heroes — "nothing else here addresses it" only when every other active has a researched 'none' row; "not yet assessed" when that is the truth. Rows whose dots read moderate or better now reach R9p first.
Rule R9 decided 4,156 verdicts across the catalog; “Unproven” is the verdict on 4,156 of 45,446. The full register. - Carrying active
- Hyaluronic Acid
- 1 · Standing
- Plausible — trials support it
- 2 · Form
- Plausible — concentration not declared; read from the position in the ingredient list
- 3 · Tolerability
- Gentle
- Evidence dots
- Limited evidence
Row checked against its sources on July 17, 2026 (evidence table ev-2026.10-r231). - What readers report
- No reviews read yet for this product. Shown beside the verdict; never blended into it.
- Verdict since
- October 9, 2026 (unchanged across rebuilds since then)
The studies and documents on the row
- Benefits of topical hyaluronic acid for skin quality and signs of skin aging: From literature review to clinical evidence — Dermatologic Therapy (2022), opened July 16, 2026
← Back to the verdict All dullness products → Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
for Dehydration
Hyaluronic Acid is a reference standard by mechanism for dehydration; this lotion carries it.
A trial-supported active, or a reference standard by mechanism, at a working level; or a first-line active below its studied range.
- Rule
- R5 → Good choice. A supported active (trial-backed, or a reference standard by mechanism); declared at a working strength, or a labelled active or at a plausible but undeclared level.
q1 = supported · q2 = adequate | plausible
Why this rule exists: Trial-supported or guideline-supported active, adequately or plausibly dosed.
Rule R5 decided 9,843 verdicts across the catalog; “Good choice” is the verdict on 10,340 of 45,446. The full register. - Carrying active
- Hyaluronic Acid
- 1 · Standing
- Supported — its mechanism is established (a reference standard, not a trial result)
- 2 · Form
- Plausible — concentration not declared; read from the position in the ingredient list
Studied range: 0.1%, from the trials on the row; needs leave-on contact; judge it after about 1 weeks - 3 · Tolerability
- Gentle
- Evidence dots
- Limited evidence
Row checked against its sources on July 17, 2026 (evidence table ev-2026.10-r231). - What readers report
- No reviews read yet for this product. Shown beside the verdict; never blended into it.
- Verdict since
- September 5, 2026 (unchanged across rebuilds since then)
The studies and documents on the row
- Draelos ZD, Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures — hyaluronic acid classified as a humectant water-binding agent holding many times its weight in water — reference work
← Back to the verdict All dehydration products → Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
for Hyperpigmentation
Niacinamide is a trial-supported active for hyperpigmentation; this lotion carries it, though the concentration is not declared.
A trial-supported active, or a reference standard by mechanism, at a working level; or a first-line active below its studied range.
- Rule
- R5 → Good choice. A supported active (trial-backed, or a reference standard by mechanism); declared at a working strength, or a labelled active or at a plausible but undeclared level.
q1 = supported · q2 = adequate | plausible
Why this rule exists: Trial-supported or guideline-supported active, adequately or plausibly dosed.
Rule R5 decided 9,843 verdicts across the catalog; “Good choice” is the verdict on 10,340 of 45,446. The full register. - Carrying active
- Niacinamide
- 1 · Standing
- Supported — trials support it
- 2 · Form
- Plausible — concentration not declared; read from the position in the ingredient list
- 3 · Tolerability
- Gentle
- Evidence dots
- Moderate evidence
- What readers report
- No reviews read yet for this product. Shown beside the verdict; never blended into it.
- Verdict since
- September 5, 2026 (unchanged across rebuilds since then)
The studies and documents on the row
- The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer — British Journal of Dermatology (2002), opened July 16, 2026
- Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin — International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2004), opened July 16, 2026
- Reduction in facial hyperpigmentation after treatment with a combination of topical niacinamide and tranexamic acid: a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial — Skin Research and Technology (2014), opened July 16, 2026
- Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentation — Antioxidants (Basel) (2021), opened July 16, 2026
- Topical niacinamide 4% and desonide 0.05% for treatment of axillary hyperpigmentation: a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. — Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (tier 3); independent academic group, 'no conflicts of interest', NCT01542138 (2013), opened October 13, 2026
- Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation after use of moisturizers with a combination of topical niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine: results of a randomized, double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial. — British Journal of Dermatology (tier 1); P&G co-authors; COMBINATION (niacinamide + NAG) (2010), opened October 13, 2026
- Effective inhibition of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes by lectins and niacinamide is reversible. — Experimental Dermatology (tier 2); P&G co-authors; receipt for the dose-response and reversibility finding (2005), opened October 13, 2026
- Synergistic effects of niacinamide and low pH on melanin synthesis, melanocyte function and hyperpigmentation: In vitro and clinical insights. — International Journal of Cosmetic Science (tier 3); P&G-authored; NOT counted (randomization not stated in abstract) (2026), opened October 13, 2026
- Topical treatment for postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: a systematic review. — Journal of Dermatological Treatment (unlisted -> tier 3); per-STUDY modified GRADE, no body-of-evidence certainty for niacinamide (2022), opened October 13, 2026
- Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-undecyl-10-enoyl-L-phenylalanine and its combination with niacinamide. — Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (tier 3); P&G; NOT counted (abstract does not report niacinamide-alone vs vehicle) (2009), opened October 13, 2026
← Back to the verdict All hyperpigmentation products → Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
as a moisturizer
Does what a moisturizer is for: draws in water, softens and smooths.
- Rule
- J2 → Does the job. The category-job reading is 65 or more.
Category job score over the measured features 65–85. - Measured from the label
- draws in water, softens and smooths, seals moisture in, supplies barrier lipids, right weight for the job
- Tolerability
- Gentle
A verdict is Dermington’s assessment of how well a product’s ingredients fit a concern — never a claim about what the product treats. Every rule is public and the same for every product; a brand cannot buy a reading. How we decide · what has changed · disclaimer.