The science
The cooling claim is worth taking apart because it is one of the few sunscreen gimmicks with a straightforward mechanism. Evaporative cooling removes roughly 2,260 joules per gram of water that vaporises from the skin surface; a stick that carries water as its first ingredient inside a wax matrix delivers a thin layer of that water when the emulsion breaks on contact, and the brief temperature drop Goodal measured, a little under five percent by skin thermometry in a small panel, is consistent with what a few milligrams of evaporating water would produce. The effect is real, short, and entirely physical. It does not indicate any anti-inflammatory action, though users experiencing sun-flushed skin will feel it as soothing.
The filter system is the same coherent European set the brand uses across its sun range. Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate absorbs UVA-I and is photostable, which removes the need for a stabiliser; ethylhexyl triazone has one of the highest UVB extinction coefficients of any approved filter; bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine covers UVB through UVA-I and stabilises its neighbours; polysilicone-15 adds UVB absorbance; and butyloctyl salicylate raises measured SPF by improving film uniformity. The relevant question for a stick is not the filter chemistry but the film. Studies of stick sunscreens using the standard two milligrams per square centimetre benchmark have found that typical consumer application, one or two passes, deposits well under that amount, and that multiple overlapping passes are needed to approach the labelled SPF. That is a property of the format rather than a flaw in this product, but it should shape how it is used.
On the soothing side, houttuynia cordata extract has demonstrated anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity in laboratory work, and the 2023 Calming version's declared 0.35 percent was within a range where a modest effect is at least plausible. The 2026 Soothing relabel lists the same extract without a concentration and well down the botanical order, so the same claim can no longer be made from the label. Melia azadirachta, ocimum sanctum and curcuma longa extracts have similar in-vitro data at undisclosed levels here. Niacinamide has clinical evidence for barrier support and erythema reduction at 2 to 5 percent in leave-on use; its position thirteenth on the list suggests a low-percent dose, and in a reapplication product with thin films the exposure is small. The hyaluronate salts at the end of the list are, as elsewhere in the range, present at trace levels and contribute nothing to hydration, which in an anhydrous-finish stick is not the point anyway.