The science
The foam is a fatty-acid soap cleanser with secondary surfactants. Potassium myristate and potassium stearate, formed from myristic and stearic acids neutralised with potassium hydroxide, with additional stearic, myristic, palmitic, lauric, oleic and arachidic acids, form the soap base that produces the dense, stable lather characteristic of Korean and Japanese foam washes; soap solutions are alkaline, typically pH 9 to 10, and alkaline cleansing transiently raises skin surface pH, extracts intercellular lipids and increases transepidermal water loss more than syndet cleansers at pH 5 to 6 in controlled comparisons, with the effect most consequential on dry, atopic, rosacea-prone or retinoid-treated skin. Coco-betaine, an amphoteric surfactant, and potassium cocoyl glycinate, an acylated amino-acid surfactant, reduce the aggregate irritancy of the blend and improve foam creaminess; sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, an anionic surfactant with irritation potential comparable to sulfates, increases foam and cleansing power. Glycerin, sorbitol and butylene glycol provide humectancy during the wash; allantoin and panthenol soothe; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate and sodium chloride structure the cream; hydrogenated polydecene adds slip.
The line's signature ingredients cannot act in a rinse-off. Allium cepa bulb extract, fourth, contributes quercetin and organosulfur compounds with in vitro activity and a scar-gel pedigree irrelevant to a thirty-second wash; sodium heparin, thirteenth, tranexamic acid and sodium ascorbyl phosphate, in the final positions, have leave-on evidence at doses and contact times not approached here; Houttuynia cordata, Eclipta prostrata, Melia azadirachta, Coccinia indica, Solanum melongena, Ocimum sanctum, Curcuma longa and Corallina officinalis extracts add antioxidant notes without effect in a cleanser. Preservation uses potassium benzoate and 1,2-hexanediol with citrate buffering and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate and disodium EDTA as chelators. The formula is fragrance-free and alcohol-free; the fatty acids, glyceryl stearate and hydrogenated polydecene are Malassezia substrates at low residual levels; sodium heparin makes it non-vegan. It is suitable in pregnancy. The brand's testing is unpublished, and no independent study exists.