Kose Carte HD Moisture Washing Foam in a white foam pump bottle
Supporting role for Dryness
What makes this different

It uses amino-acid surfactants (cocoyl glycinate and methyl cocoyl taurate) with a licorice-derived quasi-drug active and natural moisturizing factor ingredients, in a fragrance-free, paraben-free pump foam.

Kose

Kose Carte HD Moisture Washing Foam Review

Amino-Acid Pump Foam Cleansers foam j beauty Paraben free Fungal-acne safe Not cruelty free

The Carté HD Moisture Washing Foam is one of the gentlest cleansers you can buy: a fragrance-free, paraben-free pump foam built on amino-acid surfactants, with humectants and a licorice-derived active. It cleans without tightness and suits dry and sensitive skin especially well. It is not a makeup remover, and it is mainly sold in Japan.

Price — 150 ml / 5.07 fl oz · more sizes
On the market 2020 Made in Japan
Buy at Amazon ♥
Verdicts

How well it fits each concern

Launched in 2020, the washing foam has about 900 @cosme reviews and no English-language product studies. This assessment draws on the well-documented mildness of amino-acid surfactants rather than product-specific testing.

One verdict per concern. Open a row for the reasoning; the receipt has every source.

The scaleRecommendedGoodSupportingEarly evidenceNot for thisAvoidhow it works

Supporting rolefor DrynessRinse-off foam: Glycerin gets seconds of contact, so this supports a routine for dryness rather than treating it.Receipt2 sources on the row · concentration not declared; studied range 2–20% · row checked Jul 17, 2026 · rule R6, same reading on 2,083 products · open the receipt

The case for it

  1. Glycerin + Butylene Glycol + Maltitol is a reference standard by mechanism for this concern — an established physical action, not a trial result.
  2. It is in a rinse-off product, so it gets seconds of contact rather than the leave-on exposure the evidence assumes.
  3. The formula carries none of the triggers this concern is sensitive to.

Limited evidenceGentleNo reviews read yet

What would change this: The same active in a leave-on form would be judged on its evidence rather than its contact time.

Same rule for everyone. “Supporting role” is the verdict on 7,796 of 45,446 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule R6 decided 2,083 of them. Unchanged since October 7, 2026, engine 5.2.0.

Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →

The full receipt: rule, row, sources, dates →All dryness products →

Good choicefor SensitivityNo fragrance, drying alcohol, declarable allergens or sensitising preservatives in this foam — the profile sensitive skin looks for.Receiptread from the ingredient list: no fragrance, drying alcohol, declarable allergens or sensitising preservatives · rule F2, same reading on 1,955 products · open the receipt

The case for it

  1. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate has no evidence row yet for this concern — it is in the research queue.
  2. The formula carries none of the triggers this concern is sensitive to.

Not from a trial rowGentleNo reviews read yet

What would change this: A researched evidence row for the lead active would replace this with a verdict.

Same rule for everyone. “Good choice” is the verdict on 1,955 of 45,446 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule F2 decided 1,955 of them. Unchanged since October 7, 2026, engine 5.2.0.

Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →

The full receipt: rule, row, sources, dates →All sensitivity products →

Does the jobDoes what a cleanser is for: surfactant mildness, rinses clean without stripping. Not measured from the label: pH match to skin.

A verdict is Dermington’s assessment of how well a product’s ingredients fit a concern — never a claim about what the product treats. Evidence dots and collected reviews sit beside it and are never blended in. Rules 0.5.1 · evidence table ev-2026.10-r231 · engine 5.2.0 · how we decide · this product’s receipt

Reader poll · Town SquareQuestion 1 of up to 3

Have you used Carte HD Moisture Washing Foam?

One tap counts. A couple of optional follow-ups come next.

No account neededOne answer each, change it any timeCounted only in anonymous totalsHow the Square counts →
Assessment

Pros & cons

What it does well 6

  • Built on mild amino-acid surfactants
  • Fragrance-free, paraben-free, sulfate-free and oil-free
  • Dense, cushiony foam from the pump
  • Leaves skin comfortable rather than tight
  • Suits sensitive skin and retinoid users
  • Refills available, good value in Japan

Where it falls short 4

  • Doesn't remove makeup or water-resistant sunscreen
  • Very oily skin may want a stronger clean in summer
  • Foam pump can clog without occasional rinsing
  • Not carried by mainstream US retailers
Review

The full review

Every moisturizing routine has a vulnerable moment: the wash. A harsh cleanser can strip away the lipids and natural moisturizing factor that a good moisturizer is trying to replenish, leaving skin tight and more prone to irritation. For a brand built around dry skin, that is a problem worth solving carefully. Carté HD's Moisture Washing Foam is the answer from KOSÉ Maruho Pharma, the company formed in 2019 by KOSÉ and dermatology-focused Maruho. Launched in 2020, it has around 900 reviews on @cosme, and reviewers consistently describe the same thing: skin feels clean but not tight.

The reason lies in its surfactants. Potassium cocoyl glycinate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate are amino-acid-based cleansing agents. They are made by combining coconut fatty acids with amino acids such as glycine and taurine, and they are known for being among the mildest surfactants available. They interact less with skin proteins and lipids than sulfates or soaps, and cleansers based on them tend to leave the barrier more intact. Sodium cocoamphoacetate, an amphoteric surfactant often used in baby washes, softens the cleanse further and helps create the dense foam.

The rest of the formula supports comfort. Butylene glycol, glycerin and maltitol are humectants that leave a small amount of hydration behind after rinsing. Serine, theanine and acetyl hydroxyproline are amino acids associated with natural moisturizing factor, and glycosyl trehalose and glyceryl glucoside add water-binding. The registered quasi-drug active is dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, a licorice-derived anti-inflammatory widely used in Japanese skincare to reduce roughness. In a rinse-off, contact time is short, but the ingredient fits the product's gentle design. Unlike most Carté HD products, it contains no heparin-like substance, which is reserved for the leave-on moisturizers.

The formula is fragrance-free, paraben-free, sulfate-free and oil-free, preserved with phenoxyethanol alone. That makes it suitable for nearly every skin type, including sensitive, eczema-prone and rosacea-prone skin, and for people using retinoids or exfoliating acids, who benefit from gentle cleansing.

In use, two or three pumps dispense a dense, fine-bubbled foam that feels cushiony on the skin. Carté suggests letting the foam wrap the face and gently massaging rather than scrubbing. It rinses quickly and leaves skin soft and comfortable. Oily skin can use it too; mild surfactants still remove oil and sweat effectively, although some people with very oily skin may want a slightly stronger cleanse in hot weather.

The foam is not designed to remove makeup or water-resistant sunscreen. Carté pairs it with its Cleansing Oil Gel as a double cleanse, and any oil-based remover will work as the first step. Used alone in the morning, though, it is an ideal wash for skin that has only accumulated sweat and sebum overnight.

It helps to think about how a cleanser fits into dry-skin care as a whole. Many people with dry or sensitive skin spend money on rich moisturizers while washing twice a day with a cleanser that strips the very lipids those moisturizers are trying to replace. Switching to a mild foam like this one is often one of the simplest and most effective changes they can make. In a dermatology clinic, it is common advice for patients with eczema, rosacea or retinoid irritation, and the difference can be noticeable within a week or two: less tightness after washing, less redness and fewer flaky patches.

Water temperature and technique matter as much as the product. Lukewarm water dissolves less of the skin's lipids than hot water. Letting the foam do the work, with gentle circular movements rather than scrubbing, avoids friction. Patting dry with a soft towel and applying the next step within a minute keeps skin from losing water during the gap. For people with very dry skin, washing only at night and rinsing with water in the morning can reduce irritation further, and this foam is mild enough to make that a comfortable routine.

There is also an argument for using it alongside stronger treatments. Someone using benzoyl peroxide or a retinoid for acne, for example, will tolerate those actives better if the cleanser is not adding to the irritation. Pairing a gentle foam with a potent treatment is a common approach for exactly that reason.

A small practical note from reviewers: foam pumps can clog if residue dries in the nozzle, so rinsing the pump head occasionally keeps it working smoothly. Refill pouches reduce cost and allow the bottle to be reused.

The biggest obstacle for international shoppers is getting hold of it. In Japan, the 150 ml bottle costs about ¥1,320, very good value for such a gentle formula. Outside Japan, buyers generally rely on online importers, and no verified US price was available.

KOSÉ is a legacy cosmetics company, and Carté HD's partnership with Maruho gives the line a dermatology focus that shows in this careful formulation. Quasi-drug approval covers the active ingredient, though product-specific trials are not published in English. For anyone with dry or sensitive skin who wants a cleanser that respects the barrier, this is an excellent choice, and one of the clearest examples of how the gentlest surfactants can still deliver a satisfying foam.

The science

The mildness of a cleanser is largely determined by its surfactants. Acyl amino acid surfactants such as potassium cocoyl glycinate and acyl taurates such as sodium methyl cocoyl taurate have larger, more hydrophilic head groups and form micelles that penetrate the stratum corneum less than alkyl sulfates or soaps. Studies comparing surfactant classes show amino-acid surfactants cause less protein denaturation, less lipid extraction and lower increases in transepidermal water loss after washing. Amphoteric surfactants such as sodium cocoamphoacetate further reduce irritation in mixtures by lowering the free surfactant concentration.

Humectants such as glycerin, butylene glycol and maltitol partly remain on the skin after rinsing, offsetting the small water loss caused by any cleansing. Amino acids including serine and theanine are components or analogues of the natural moisturizing factor, which helps corneocytes retain water. Glycosyl trehalose and glyceryl glucoside are additional water-binding agents.

Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate is an anti-inflammatory active approved in Japanese quasi-drugs. In a rinse-off product, its effect is limited by short contact time, but it contributes to the formula's low-irritation design.

For dry and sensitive skin, choosing a cleanser with mild surfactants is one of the most effective ways to protect barrier function, since cleansing occurs daily and its effects accumulate.

The clinical view

Dermatologists commonly recommend gentle, fragrance-free, non-soap cleansers for dry, sensitive, eczema-prone and acne-prone skin, as harsh cleansing can impair the barrier and worsen irritation. Amino-acid-based surfactant systems are widely regarded as among the mildest options. This foam fits those recommendations well. Clinicians would advise using an oil-based first cleanser for water-resistant sunscreen and makeup, and lukewarm rather than hot water.

Formula

Key ingredients

  1. Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate + Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

    Amino-acid-based surfactants, among the mildest cleansing agents, which clean without stripping dry, sensitive skin.

    Not yet assessed
  2. Sodium Cocoamphoacetate

    An amphoteric co-surfactant that softens the cleanse and helps form the fine, dense foam.

    Not yet assessed
  3. Glycerin + Butylene Glycol + Maltitol

    Humectants that leave a trace of hydration after rinsing, so skin doesn't feel tight.

    Established mechanism for Dryness · established mechanism
  4. Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate

    The registered anti-inflammatory active, supporting a calm, low-irritation wash.

    Not yet assessed
  5. Serine + Theanine + Acetyl Hydroxyproline

    Moisturizing-factor amino acids that soften the after-feel.

    Not yet assessed
Full ingredient list 17 ingredients ShowHide

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizinate (active), Water, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Glycerin, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Maltitol, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate/Glycosyl Trehalose, Serine, Theanine, Acetyl Hydroxyproline, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl-N-(2-Methacryloyloxyethyl) Carbamate/Stearyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Glyceryl Glucoside, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Phenoxyethanol

Safety & formulation facts

  • Pregnancy safe
  • Fragrance free
  • Alcohol free
  • Oil free
  • Silicone free
  • Paraben free
  • Sulfate free
  • Not cruelty free
  • Not vegan
  • Fungal-acne safe
Compatibility

Skin types & routine

Routine step cleanser
Time of day Morning & night
Best season All year
Finish natural

Layering

Use as the morning cleanse or as the second step after an oil or gel makeup remover at night, then apply a hydrating lotion straight away.

When to expect results

Skin feels clean and soft from the first wash. As a cleanser, it has no cumulative treatment effect.

Pairs well with Cleansing oil gelHydrating lotionMoisturizer

A routine built around it

Morning

  1. Kose Carte HD Moisture Washing Foamthis product
  2. Lotion
  3. Emulsion
  4. Sunscreen

Night

  1. Cleansing gel
  2. Kose Carte HD Moisture Washing Foamthis product
  3. Lotion
  4. Emulsion
Guidance

How to use it, and who it's for

How to use

Wet your face and hands with lukewarm water. Pump two or three doses of foam into your palm and spread it over the face, letting the foam cushion the skin as you massage gently for about thirty seconds. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry, then apply a hydrating lotion and moisturizer straight away. In the evening, use it after an oil or gel makeup remover. Rinse the pump head occasionally to keep it from clogging.

Is it worth the price?

No official US price exists. In Japan, the 150 ml bottle costs about ¥1,320, excellent value for a fragrance-free, amino-acid cleanser, and refills lower the cost further. Imported prices are higher but still reasonable. A bottle lasts six to eight weeks. KOSÉ is a legacy brand, and the formula reflects careful dermatological design, though product-specific studies are not published in English.

Who should buy it

People with dry, sensitive or easily irritated skin, and anyone using retinoids or acids, who want a fragrance-free foam that cleans without tightness.

Who should skip it

Those looking for a single-step makeup remover, or very oily skin that prefers a stronger cleanse, may want another option. Anyone needing a US-stocked product may find importing inconvenient.

Ready to try it?Kose Carte HD Moisture Washing Foam · 150 ml / 5.07 fl oz
Details

The product, in detail

Texture
A clear liquid that dispenses as a dense, fine-bubbled foam.
Scent
Fragrance-free; no noticeable smell.
Packaging
A 150 ml white foam-pump bottle; refills are available.
How long it lasts
About six to eight weeks with two to three pumps twice a day.
Once opened
Use within 12 months · track your toss-by date →
Size
150 ml / 5.07 fl oz · other sizes available
Made in
Japan
Launched
2020

What the first two weeks feel like

The foam is soft and cushiony, rinses quickly and leaves skin comfortable rather than squeaky.

The story behind it

Why it exists

Carté HD launched the washing foam with its 2020 range so that its dry-skin routine could start with a cleanser that didn't undo the moisturizing steps.

About Kose Legacy Brand (20+ years)

Carté HD belongs to KOSÉ Maruho Pharma, which KOSÉ, a Japanese cosmetics company since 1946, formed in 2019 with Maruho, a drug maker centred on dermatology. Its cleansers and moisturizers are Japanese quasi-drugs; product data in English is limited.

Brand founded 1946 · This product since 2020

Myth vs. reality

What people get wrong about it

MythFoaming cleansers always strip the skin.

RealityStripping depends on the surfactants. Amino-acid surfactants like these clean with far less lipid removal than sulfates.

MythA gentle cleanser can't clean properly.

RealityMild surfactants still remove sweat, oil and dirt; they just leave the barrier more intact.

MythOne cleanser can remove everything.

RealityWater-resistant makeup and sunscreen need an oil-based first cleanse; this foam is designed as the second step.

FAQ

Questions people ask

Is Carte HD Moisture Washing Foam good for sensitive skin?

Yes. It uses mild amino-acid surfactants and is fragrance-free and paraben-free, which suits sensitive and dry skin.

Does Carte HD Washing Foam remove makeup?

It removes light residue, but you should use the Carté HD Cleansing Oil Gel or another remover first for makeup and sunscreen.

Can oily skin use the Carte HD foam?

Yes. It's gentle but still cleans oil and dirt effectively, though very oily skin may prefer a slightly stronger wash in summer.

What are amino-acid surfactants?

They're cleansing agents made from amino acids and fatty acids, such as potassium cocoyl glycinate, known for being mild on the skin barrier.

Is the Carte HD foam safe in pregnancy?

Yes. It's a gentle rinse-off cleanser with no ingredients of concern.

Reviews

What shoppers tend to say

Recurring themes our editors read across retailer reviews — summaries in our words, not quotations, and not a substitute for a patch test.

Common praise

  • Very gentle, no tightness
  • Fine, dense foam from the pump
  • Fragrance-free
  • Good for sensitive skin

Common complaints

  • Doesn't remove makeup
  • Pump can clog if not rinsed
Notable endorsementsJapanese Best Cosme awards (3 according to the brand)
Related conditions DrynessSensitivity
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