The science
The evidence in this bottle belongs to the dandruff actives, and it is solid. Piroctone olamine has been compared head-to-head with zinc pyrithione and ketoconazole in shampoo trials for decades. A double-blind, randomised bilateral study by Lodén and Wessman in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2000 tested precisely this serum's pairing — 0.75% piroctone olamine with 2% salicylic acid — against a 1% zinc pyrithione shampoo over four weeks and found both highly effective, with the piroctone-salicylic combination slightly ahead on scaling severity and area. A 2002 study by Piérard-Franchimont and colleagues in the same journal is unexpectedly relevant to the label's other claim: in 150 men with androgenetic alopecia and dandruff, six months of 1% ketoconazole, 1% piroctone olamine or 1% zinc pyrithione shampoo all cleared the dandruff quickly, and the ketoconazole and piroctone groups showed a modest reduction in hair shedding — evidence that controlling scalp inflammation helps retain hair, which is a more defensible reading of 'anti hair loss' than anything the peptides offer. Its concentration here is undisclosed, and the leave-in format is less studied than shampoos, but the longer contact time is mechanistically favourable — most antifungal shampoo data are constrained by a rinse-off of under a minute. Salicylic acid's keratolytic action on scalp scale is recognised in the FDA dandruff monograph at 1.8 to 3% for rinse-off products; the level in this leave-in is certainly lower, consistent with daily low-dose exfoliation rather than a treatment dose.
The hair-loss claim rests on a different and far weaker footing. Copper tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) has in-vitro and small in-vivo data suggesting it prolongs follicle anagen and stimulates dermal papilla cells, but the studies used concentrations and delivery systems unlike a trace level in an alcohol tonic, and no controlled trial shows a cosmetic leave-in at this dose changes hair density. The other eleven peptides have essentially no published hair data; they qualify the line for Korea's 'hair loss symptom alleviation' functional-cosmetic registration, which requires listed ingredients at set levels and is not an efficacy finding. Topical biotin has no evidence of follicular uptake or effect; the literature on biotin and hair concerns oral supplementation in deficiency. Rosemary leaf extract is included at a level far below the rosemary oil used in the single small 2015 trial that compared it with 2% minoxidil.
Menthol and cornmint oil act on TRPM8 cold receptors to produce the cooling sensation and a brief interruption of itch signalling — a documented sensory mechanism, not a treatment. The centella triterpenes have anti-inflammatory evidence, mostly from wound-healing and dermatitis models rather than scalp studies. As with every Some By Mi product, no trial of the finished serum exists; the honest summary is that its antifungal and keratolytic components are well supported, its cooling and soothing components are plausible, and its hair-loss components are a regulatory category dressed as a promise.
References 2 ShowHide
- The antidandruff efficacy of a shampoo containing piroctone olamine and salicylic acid in comparison to that of a zinc pyrithione shampoo — International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2000)
- Nudging hair shedding by antidandruff shampoos. A comparison of 1% ketoconazole, 1% piroctone olamine and 1% zinc pyrithione formulations — International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002)