The science
The evidence for this cream lies in its vehicle, and the vehicle is excellent. Glycerin, butylene glycol and betaine are established humectants that raise stratum corneum water content, and panthenol adds evidence for reducing irritation and supporting barrier recovery; caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter and squalane are well-characterised emollients with occlusive and skin-identical properties, the 2017 International Journal of Molecular Sciences review of topical plant oils covering shea's fatty-acid and triterpene profile among the barrier-supporting lipids, and the phytosterol dimer dilinoleate ester and silicones spread the lipids into a smooth, semi-occlusive film with a subtle optical glow. Together they explain the cushioned feel, the overnight softening and the plumper appearance with continued use. Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, the lipophilic ester of the licorice-derived anti-inflammatory glycyrrhetinic acid, has laboratory anti-irritant data and is used at low levels for that purpose.
The barrier lipids and the named complexes are present at label-minimum positions. Ceramide NP, cholesterol and linoleic acid in physiological ratios improve barrier function when delivered at meaningful concentrations, but at forty-second, forty-fifth and ninety-fourth of a hundred-odd ingredients they cannot be credited with that effect. The daylily extract and the Dendrobium-derived plant acids, ferulic, rosmarinic and ursolic acids, quercetin, beta-sitosterol and cedrol, have individual antioxidant, anti-inflammatory or barrier data in vitro, and at the tail of the list they cannot be assessed; no clinical study of the complex on human skin has been published. The fifty-odd Cheongibidan extracts, the two ginseng listings and the mushroom extracts have laboratory data on constituents and no clinical evidence as a topical blend; oyster shell has none, and gold, mica and iron oxide are colour.
The risk is fragrance under occlusion. The seven declared components, benzyl benzoate, hydroxycitronellal, geraniol, limonene, hexyl cinnamal, citronellol and linalool, are among the twenty-six labelled allergens studied in the 2017 Contact Dermatitis multicentre patch-test series, in which hydroxycitronellal, geraniol and hexyl cinnamal are frequent positives, and a rich occlusive base prolongs contact; chrysanthellum, an Asteraceae extract, and soybean extract are minor allergens. Shea butter and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate carry comedogenic potential for acne-prone users. The absence of alcohol and parabens and the 1,2-hexanediol preservation are favourable.
References 2 ShowHide
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils — International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2017)
- Non-mix fragrances are top sensitizers in consecutive dermatitis patients - a cross-sectional study of the 26 EU-labelled fragrance allergens — Contact Dermatitis (2017)