The science
An under-eye serum earns its claims one at a time, and this one earns two. The hydration claim rests on a humectant-emollient pairing with strong support: glycerin and sodium hyaluronate bind water at and just below the surface, and squalane, oat kernel oil and the soybean sterol-phospholipid fraction supply lipids that integrate with the stratum corneum and slow water loss. A 2025 review in the International Journal of Dermatology on restoring skin hydration and barrier function summarised how such humectant-plus-lipid combinations improve stratum corneum water content and pliability, which in the thin, lipid-poor skin under the eye translates into the softer, less crepey appearance users describe after a week or two. The film formed by soluble collagen adds surface water-holding and temporarily smooths fine lines by hydrating them, but collagen cannot penetrate the skin and contributes nothing to dermal structure.
The puffiness and dark-circle claims rest on dipotassium glycyrrhizate, the licorice-root derivative with documented topical anti-inflammatory activity, which can plausibly reduce the mild inflammatory and fluid component of morning puffiness and the tired-looking shadow that accompanies it; a 2025 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science evaluating a topical cream on the signs of periorbital ageing through in vitro, ex vivo, instrumental and clinical methods illustrates how such multi-component eye formulas are assessed and what modest, hydration-led improvements they typically produce. Pigmented dark circles and hollowing are unaffected by any ingredient here.
The remaining claims — crow's-feet, fine lines, wrinkles — have no supporting mechanism in the formula. The plant-expressed growth-factor mimic (Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-polypeptide-47) is an intriguing ingredient with in-vitro data only, present at a low level; ferulic acid and tocopherol add antioxidant cover; nothing resurfaces, stimulates collagen at a demonstrated dose or lightens pigment. No product-specific testing exists and no concentrations are disclosed, so the evidence supports the serum as a gentle, effective under-eye moisturizer with a mild anti-inflammatory, and not as a wrinkle or pigment corrector.
References 2 ShowHide
- Restoring Skin Hydration and Barrier Function: Mechanistic Insights Into Basic Emollients for Xerosis Cutis — International Journal of Dermatology (2025)
- In vitro, ex vivo, instrumental and clinical evaluation of a topical cream on the signs of periorbital ageing — International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2025)