The science
Retinol's credentials as a cosmetic anti-aging ingredient are not in dispute; the open questions for this cream are dose and stability. A 2017 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science examined the molecular basis of retinol's anti-ageing effects in naturally aged human skin in vivo, documenting increased epidermal thickness, stimulated collagen and elastin-related gene expression and improved dermal matrix after topical application — the mechanism by which any retinol cream, at sufficient dose, smooths texture and softens fine lines. A 2020 pilot study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared two retinol concentrations in a randomised parallel trial and found both improved ageing-skin measures over the study period, with the higher concentration producing greater change and more irritation; Advanced Clinicals does not state its concentration, and retinol's position seventeenth in the list places it at the low end of that spectrum, where the expectation is gradual improvement in texture and tone rather than dramatic change.
The ferulic acid is more than decoration. A 2008 study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology showed that ferulic acid stabilises topical vitamins C and E and doubles their photoprotective effect against ultraviolet-induced damage; retinol is a different molecule with the same vulnerability to oxidation, and the inclusion of ferulic acid and its ethyl ester alongside tocopherol in this cream is a sensible attempt to extend the active's life in a jar. It does not, however, solve the fundamental problem of a wide-mouth container, and it does not reduce the sun sensitivity a retinoid produces, so sunscreen remains essential.
The remaining actives — a single palmitoyl tripeptide, rosehip oil, green tea and turmeric extracts — have supporting evidence as antioxidants and emollients but are present at levels that make them contributors to tolerability rather than to efficacy. No product-specific testing has been published, and without a disclosed concentration the science supports the design of the cream as a gentle, well-buffered low-dose retinoid rather than any particular result.
References 3 ShowHide
- Molecular basis of retinol anti-ageing properties in naturally aged human skin in vivo — International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2017)
- Randomized parallel control trial checking the efficacy and impact of two concentrations of retinol in the original formula on the aging skin condition: Pilot study — Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2020)
- A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation — Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2008)