The science
This serum is built almost entirely from ingredients with a mature evidence base, and its order of ingredients lets that evidence apply. Panthenol's barrier effect was shown in Gehring and Gloor's randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study in Arzneimittel-Forschung in 2000, in which seven days of topical dexpanthenol improved stratum corneum hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss relative to vehicle (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10965426/), and Ebner and colleagues' 2002 review in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology surveyed its wider use as a moisturiser and in barrier and wound recovery (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12113650/); at fourth position in this formula, panthenol is present at a level where those findings are relevant. For the ceramides, a 2019 split-site, double-blind randomized study in Dermatologic Therapy by Lueangarun and colleagues found that a moisturiser containing ceramides 1, 3 and 6-II, the older names for EOP, NP and AP, increased hydration and improved TEWL and skin pH within 24 hours and more so after 28 days of twice-daily use in older adults with dry skin, compared with a hydrophilic cream (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31585489/), and a 2021 qualitative review in the Journal of Dermatology concluded that ceramide-containing formulations improve water retention and barrier function in dry and atopic skin across a dozen reports (https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34596254/). Those results came from creams richer in ceramides than this serum, whose five ceramides sit in the last third of the list; what makes the comparison reasonable is the base, an emulsion of olivate esters, lecithin, cholesterol and phytosphingosine that can solubilise ceramides, unlike the water gels in which they are often listed for show. Niacinamide's ability to increase epidermal ceramide and free-fatty-acid synthesis and reduce TEWL with daily use is well documented, and at sixth position it plausibly contributes to the four-week improvement users describe. Echium oil, rich in stearidonic and gamma-linolenic acids, and sunflower unsaponifiables have smaller literatures supporting anti-inflammatory and barrier effects; balloon vine extract's anti-itch reputation rests on traditional use and a few small trials in eczema products. Biodance has published no study of this serum, so the case for it is inferential: sound ingredients, in sensible amounts, in a base that lets them work.
References 4 ShowHide
- Effect of topically applied dexpanthenol on epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum hydration. Results of a human in vivo study — Arzneimittel-Forschung (2000)
- Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders — American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2002)
- The 24-hr, 28-day, and 7-day post-moisturizing efficacy of ceramides 1, 3, 6-II containing moisturizing cream compared with hydrophilic cream on skin dryness and barrier disruption in senile xerosis treatment — Dermatologic Therapy (2019)
- Clinical significance of the water retention and barrier function-improving capabilities of ceramide-containing formulations: A qualitative review — Journal of Dermatology (2021)