The science
A leave-in silicone serum is one of the best-understood products in hair care, and the evidence for what this one does is the evidence for its silicones. Dimethicone forms a thin hydrophobic film over the cuticle that reduces the coefficient of friction between fibres, lowers combing force, smooths lifted cuticle scales and limits water uptake in humid air, which is the mechanical basis for shine and frizz control; dimethiconol is a hydroxyl-terminated variant that adds slip and gloss, and aminopropyl dimethicone carries amine groups that are protonated at hair's surface and bind selectively to the negatively charged, damaged regions of bleached or heat-treated fibres, giving substantivity that survives rinsing. The volatile disiloxane is a carrier that thins the film and evaporates, which explains the residue-free dry-down. The plant oils have a smaller and more specific evidence base: the 2003 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Science comparing mineral, sunflower and coconut oils found that coconut oil, applied as a pre-wash or post-wash treatment, reduced protein loss from both damaged and undamaged hair, an effect attributed to its ability to penetrate the fibre, while mineral and sunflower oils did not; argan, olive, camellia, jojoba, rice bran, grape seed and macadamia at the positions they hold here, behind dimethicone and mostly behind the fragrance, are best read as emollients that soften the film rather than as penetrating protectants. The peptide is the ingredient with the least support in this product. The principle COSRX invokes, that a deliberately small peptide can enter the fibre and bind keratin, has an analogue in the 2021 International Journal of Cosmetic Science study showing that lower molecular weight hydrolysed keratins penetrated textured hair and improved its physical properties, but that work used aqueous leave-on treatment at working concentrations; Tripeptide-132 is the twenty-fourth and last ingredient here, in an anhydrous silicone base that offers no obvious route for a charged tripeptide into a fibre, and no independent study of it exists in any vehicle. The evidence supports this as an effective conventional silicone serum with a light lipid supplement, and supports no bonding claim.
References 2 ShowHide
- Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage — Journal of Cosmetic Science (2003)
- Penetration of different molecular weight hydrolysed keratins into hair fibres and their effects on the physical properties of textured hair — International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2021)