The science
Castor oil is one of the most chemically distinctive plant oils in cosmetics, and its distinctiveness explains both its uses and its limits. The triglyceride is roughly 85 to 90 percent ricinoleic acid, an 18-carbon monounsaturated fatty acid carrying a hydroxyl group at the twelfth carbon; that hydroxyl allows hydrogen bonding between molecules, which gives the oil a viscosity several times that of common seed oils, unusual solubility in alcohol, and a strong tendency to stay on the surface as a film. As an occlusive it behaves like a heavier, slower version of other plant oils, reducing transepidermal water loss by sealing rather than by any active humectancy, and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review's 2007 safety assessment concluded castor oil and its derivatives are safe as used in cosmetics, with the caveat of mild irritation at the eye. The anti-inflammatory reputation traces largely to animal work: Vieira and colleagues (Mediators of Inflammation, 2000) found that topical ricinoleic acid, applied repeatedly over eight days, reduced carrageenan-induced paw oedema in mice and histamine-induced eyelid oedema in guinea pigs, with effects resembling capsaicin's depletion of substance P. That study is interesting pharmacology and has never been translated into a controlled human trial of castor oil on skin inflammation; it also showed that acute, single application increased oedema before repeated use reduced it. On hair, the evidence is absent rather than negative: no clinical study has tested castor oil for lash, brow or scalp hair growth, and the proposed mechanisms, from prostaglandin E2 receptor activity to improved circulation, are speculative. What the oil demonstrably does to hair is coat the cuticle, increase shine, and reduce friction and breakage, which produces an appearance of density without a change in count. There is also a documented adverse-effect literature for the eye area, where oils applied to the lid margin can obstruct meibomian glands and worsen dry eye or provoke chalazia. On comedogenicity, castor oil scores in the moderate-to-high range on rabbit-ear and human assays, consistent with its thick, slow-absorbing film. The science supports castor oil as a safe, effective occlusive and hair-conditioning agent for the body and brows, and supports none of the growth, anti-ageing or acne claims attached to it.
References 1 ShowHide
- Effect of ricinoleic acid in acute and subchronic experimental models of inflammation — Mediators of Inflammation (2000)