The science
The star active in this formula is colloidal oatmeal, an FDA-recognized Category I skin protectant with a robust body of clinical evidence. A 2015 study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (Reynertson et al.) demonstrated that colloidal oatmeal improves skin barrier function through multiple mechanisms: its avenanthramides provide anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity, while its beta-glucans form a moisture-retaining film and its lipids contribute to barrier lipid replenishment. A companion study in the same journal (Sur et al., 2008) confirmed that colloidal oatmeal's anti-inflammatory activity contributes directly to itch relief in dry, irritated skin — a mechanism particularly relevant for eczema and post-procedure care.
Ceramide NP is one of the most abundant ceramides in healthy human skin, and its depletion is a hallmark of barrier dysfunction in conditions from atopic dermatitis to aging. While this formula contains only one ceramide rather than the three-ceramide approach used by some competitors, it compensates with a diverse lipid profile: squalane (which structurally mimics the skin's own sebum), shea butter (rich in stearic and oleic acids), meadowfoam seed oil (with its unique C20-C22 fatty acid profile), and avocado oil (a source of phytosterols and oleic acid). This multi-lipid approach provides building blocks for barrier reconstruction even without a strict ceramide-to-cholesterol-to-fatty-acid ratio.
Urea at low concentrations (likely under 5% in this formula based on its position in the ingredient list) functions primarily as a humectant and natural moisturizing factor replenisher, enhancing the water-holding capacity of the stratum corneum without the keratolytic effects seen at higher concentrations. Combined with glycerin — listed third, suggesting a concentration likely above 3% — the formula employs two distinct humectant mechanisms under the occlusive seal provided by dimethicone.
The feverfew extract used by FAB is parthenolide-depleted, a critical distinction. Raw feverfew contains parthenolide, a compound that is itself a contact sensitizer. Martin et al. (2008) in Archives of Dermatological Research demonstrated that the depleted extract retains the anti-inflammatory and free-radical-scavenging properties while eliminating the sensitization risk — a thoughtful ingredient choice for a sensitive-skin product.
References 3 ShowHide
- Colloidal Oatmeal <em>(Avena Sativa)</em> Improves Skin Barrier Through Multi-Therapy Activity. — Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2015)
- Anti-inflammatory activities of colloidal oatmeal (Avena sativa) contribute to the effectiveness of oats in treatment of itch associated with dry, irritated skin. — Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2008)
- Parthenolide-depleted Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium) protects skin from UV irradiation and external aggression. — Archives of Dermatological Research (2008)