The science
At 25% by weight, glycolic acid is the second ingredient in this gel, and the chemistry that makes it usable overnight is the partial neutralisation with ammonium hydroxide to pH 4 to 4.4, which leaves 9.5% as free, un-ionised acid capable of crossing the stratum corneum. That free fraction is what drives the mechanism: reduced corneocyte cohesion in the lower stratum corneum, faster desquamation, and with sustained use a thicker, better-organised epidermis and increased dermal glycosaminoglycans. The vehicle does the rest. Denatured alcohol, listed third, lowers surface tension and enhances penetration, so the same free-acid dose delivered here will be felt more, and act faster, than in the emollient cream of the 8 Soft.
The trial evidence at this strength is reasonably direct. A double-blind, vehicle-controlled randomised clinical trial published in the Archives of Dermatology in 1996 followed 74 women aged 40 to 70 with moderately severe facial photodamage for 22 weeks, applying 8% glycolic acid cream, 8% L-lactic acid cream or vehicle twice daily to the face and forearms. On the face, 76% of glycolic users achieved at least one grade of improvement in overall photodamage severity compared with 40% on vehicle; on the forearms, glycolic acid was superior to vehicle for overall photodamage and sallowness. The authors characterised both acids as modestly useful and well tolerated. A 2013 review in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology surveying glycolic acid across acne, scarring, melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and photoaging reinforces that the effect scales with concentration, contact time and pH, that improvement in pigment and superficial scarring is gradual, and that the acid has a strong safety record in Fitzpatrick skin types I to IV, with more caution warranted in darker skin where irritation can itself trigger post-inflammatory pigmentation.
What this gel adds beyond the acid is deliberately little: butylene glycol as a humectant co-solvent and aloe barbadensis leaf juice, which has fair evidence for reducing irritation and supporting hydration in topical use but is present in a supporting role. The absence of any lipid or occlusive means the barrier disruption from nightly 9.5% free acid must be managed by a separate moisturizer. ISDIN's four-week panel figures for smoother skin, renewal, uniformity and texture are consumer-perception results and are consistent with, but not a substitute for, the controlled evidence above.
References 2 ShowHide
- Topical 8% glycolic acid and 8% L-lactic acid creams for the treatment of photodamaged skin. A double-blind vehicle-controlled clinical trial — Archives of Dermatology (1996)
- Glycolic acid peel therapy - a current review — Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2013)