Kose Sekkisei Brightening Cleansing Oil 150ml frosted bottle with pump
Not yet assessed for Dullness
What makes this different

It's the cleansing-oil entry point into the Sekkisei brightening universe — the same Job's Tears extract that anchors the cult lotion, packaged as a first-step makeup remover. The medicated stearyl glycyrrhetinate gives it Japanese quasi-drug status that very few cleansing oils carry, even if the rinse-off format limits how much that designation matters on the skin.

Kose

Kose Sekkisei Brightening Cleansing Oil Review

Sekkisei Gateway Cleanser Cleansers oil j beauty Paraben free Not cruelty free

A handsomely-bottled herbal oil cleanser that does the basic job exceptionally well and quietly oversells the brightening angle. The medicated licorice-derivative active and the Sekkisei herbal blend give it a story; the mineral oil, sesame, and squalane do the actual cleansing work. Worth it if you already love the rest of the Sekkisei line, optional otherwise.

Price $28.00 150ml
Shopper rating 4.2 ★★★★★ 2,800 reviews
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Verdicts

How well it fits each concern

One verdict per concern. Open a row for the reasoning; the receipt has every source.

The scaleRecommendedGoodSupportingEarly evidenceNot for thisAvoidhow it works

Supporting rolefor BlackheadsNothing here targets blackheads directly; gentle cleansing is the recognised companion to treating it, and this oil does that without known triggers.ReceiptStearyl Glycyrrhetinate: no evidence row for this concern yet · rule R8, same reading on 3,793 products · open the receipt

The case for it

  1. Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate has no evidence row yet for this concern — it is in the research queue.
  2. The formula carries no trigger this concern is sensitive to, with the cautions noted.

Not from a trial rowStandard tolerabilityNo reviews read yet

Cautions: fungal-acne triggers.

What would change this: A researched evidence row for the lead active would replace this with a verdict.

Same rule for everyone. “Supporting role” is the verdict on 7,796 of 45,446 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule R8 decided 3,793 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.2.0.

Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →

The full receipt: rule, row, sources, dates →All blackheads products →How blackheads is treated →

Also listed for Dullness — the actives here (Licorice Root Extract, Vitamin E, Botanical Extracts, Plant & Seed Oils) are in our research queue for that concern; there is no verdict until their evidence rows are written. That is a gap in our table, not a mark against the product.

As a cleanserNot judged: what a cleanser is for — surfactant mildness, pH match to skin, rinses clean without stripping — cannot yet be measured from the ingredient list (only puts something back can).

A verdict is Dermington’s assessment of how well a product’s ingredients fit a concern — never a claim about what the product treats. Evidence dots and collected reviews sit beside it and are never blended in. Rules 0.5.1 · evidence table ev-2026.10-r231 · engine 5.2.0 · how we decide · this product’s receipt

Reader poll · Town SquareQuestion 1 of up to 3

Have you used Sekkisei Brightening Cleansing Oil?

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Assessment

Pros & cons

What it does well 7

  • Lifts heavy makeup and Japanese SPF in a single pass
  • Emulsifies fast into a clean, non-greasy milky rinse
  • Squalane keeps post-rinse feel from going tight or stripped
  • Medicated licorice derivative soothes massage-phase friction
  • Dual tocopherols keep the plant-oil blend stable over time
  • Pump bottle survives travel and bathroom humidity well
  • Distinctive herbal-floral scent that fades cleanly after rinse

Where it falls short 5

  • Added fragrance rules it out for perfume-reactive skin
  • BHT will be a dealbreaker for clean-beauty purists
  • Mineral-oil-forward base disappoints oil-cleansing purists
  • Brightening claim is marketing more than mechanism
  • Premium price for what is structurally a mid-range formula
Review

The full review

Think of this oil as a polite handshake from one of Japan's oldest brightening franchises. Sekkisei has been selling the same herbal-medicine pitch since 1985, anchored by Job's Tears extract and an austere blue-and-white aesthetic that has aged shockingly well. The Brightening Cleansing Oil is the rinse-off entry point into that universe — the lowest-stakes way to find out whether the Sekkisei sensorial works on you before you commit to a $60 essence. On its own merits, it's a quietly competent oil cleanser with a slightly self-important price tag and one of the best herbal scent profiles in the category.

Open the frosted bottle and what you actually get is a clear, medium-bodied oil that pours like a quality vinaigrette and warms a little against the skin. The base is straightforward: cetyl ethylhexanoate and liquid paraffin doing the heavy makeup-and-sunscreen dissolving, with isohexadecane analogs and a stable of glyceryl esters providing the slip. What sets it apart from a Cetaphil-tier oil is the medicated stearyl glycyrrhetinate parked at the top of the INCI — a licorice-root derivative that gives the product Japanese quasi-drug status (a regulatory tier between cosmetic and over-the-counter drug) and adds a soothing edge to the massage phase. In Japan that designation is taken seriously; outside Japan it mostly means 'fancier than the average cleanser.'

The massage is where the price starts to justify itself. The oil glides without dragging, lifts long-wear makeup in two or three passes, and dissolves modern Japanese SPF filters — the dense, alcohol-heavy fluids that defeat lesser cleansers — without any visible struggle. Add a splash of water and the formula emulsifies into a thin, opaque milk almost on contact; rinse and there's no greasy film, no eye stinging, no need to scrub a second time to feel clean. Sesame and safflower oils provide a thin layer of conditioning underneath the cleansing solvents, and the plant-derived squalane near the end of the list keeps the post-rinse feel from going tight. The whole experience is engineered, and it shows.

The scent is a soft herbal-floral with a powdery undertone — distinctly Sekkisei, immediately recognizable to anyone who has ever sampled the lotion. Some readers will find it spa-like and nostalgic; others will note that fragrance and BHT are both present and roll their eyes. Both reactions are fair. If you cannot tolerate added perfume in a cleansing oil, this is not the bottle for you, full stop. If you don't mind, the scent dissipates after rinsing and the only thing left on skin is a soft, slightly cushioned cleanness.

The formulation conversation is where honesty earns its keep. The 'brightening' claim is the Sekkisei brand promise, and the herbal actives that drive that promise — Job's Tears, the licorice derivative — are all present here. But they're in a product that lives on the skin for under a minute before being rinsed down the drain. The brightening work in a Sekkisei routine happens in the leave-on lotion, essence, and emulsion. This cleanser shares the family DNA, but treating it like a treatment would be a mistake. It's an excellent cleansing oil that happens to carry the herbs.

Value is mid-tier. At roughly $28 for 150 ml, it sits well above mass-market Japanese oil cleansers (Kose's own Softymo Deep Cleansing Oil delivers a larger bottle for less than half the price) and well below true luxury cleansing oils. What you pay extra for is the medicated active, the herbal heritage, and the better bottle design. Whether that math makes sense depends on whether you already have a relationship with the Sekkisei brand. If you do, this oil is a no-brainer first step. If you don't, the case is more debatable — a thoughtful drugstore option may serve you nearly as well for half the spend.

The oil performs across most skin types. Normal, combination, and dry skin get the most out of it: the squalane and plant oils provide cushion, and the rinse-off is reliably non-stripping. Oily skin will appreciate how cleanly it emulsifies and how little residue is left behind, though die-hard oil-purists tend to avoid mineral-oil-forward formulas on principle. Sensitive skin should approach carefully — the medicated active is soothing, but fragrance and BHT can both flare reactive complexions. The fungal-acne community should skip it; sesame, safflower, and isopropyl myristate are all on standard avoid lists for Malassezia-prone skin.

The small things that stand out after a few weeks of use: the pump dispenses cleanly without leaking, the bottle survives bathroom humidity without yellowing, and the oil itself remains stable over months thanks to the dual tocopherol antioxidants. Small details, the kind a brand only gets right when it has been making the same product for decades and refining the engineering quietly along the way.

Who this oil is for: anyone curious about the Sekkisei line who wants a low-commitment way in, anyone who finds drugstore oil cleansers too aggressively scented, and anyone who appreciates a Japanese cleansing-oil texture but wants the slightly more cushioned version. Who should pass: fragrance-sensitive skin, fungal-acne sufferers, and anyone who reads the price tag and thinks the herbal backstory is doing too much heavy lifting for what is, mechanically, a very good but not extraordinary oil cleanser. As an entry point into Sekkisei it's quietly excellent. As a standalone purchase it's good rather than great.

The science

The active conversation here splits cleanly into the cleansing mechanism and the marketed brightening claim. On the cleansing side, the formulation logic is well understood: nonpolar emollients like liquid paraffin and cetyl ethylhexanoate dissolve oily soils — sebum, mineral-oil-based sunscreen filters, long-wear pigments — by like-dissolves-like, and the glyceryl ester emulsifiers in the formula then carry that dissolved load away when water is introduced. The squalane behaves as a skin-mimetic emollient that buffers the post-cleanse feel, which matters because aggressive emulsifiers can leave the stratum corneum momentarily stripped after rinse-off.

The stearyl glycyrrhetinate at the top of the list is the medicated active that earns the formula its quasi-drug categorization in Japan. Glycyrrhetinic acid and its esters have a reasonably solid evidence base as anti-inflammatory agents — they suppress lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase pathways and reduce TPA-induced skin edema in animal models. In a leave-on product the relevance is clear; in a cleanser, the molecule has under a minute of contact time before being rinsed, so its real-world contribution is more about taming the friction of the massage step than delivering meaningful anti-inflammatory dosing.

The brightening claim leans on Coix Lacryma-Jobi (Job's Tears) seed extract, which has a long traditional-medicine history in East Asia and some in-vitro data showing tyrosinase-inhibiting and anti-inflammatory effects from coixenolide and related compounds. The published research on Coix is mostly preclinical and is not at the level of, for example, the niacinamide or kojic acid evidence base. In a cleansing oil specifically, expecting brightening from this ingredient is not supported by the format — the dwell time is far too short for any tyrosinase modulation to occur. The herbal extract here functions more as a brand-identity marker than as a mechanistic brightener.

The sesame and safflower oils contribute lignans and unsaturated fatty acids with mild antioxidant character; these are not the active story but they keep the formula sensorially pleasant. The dual tocopherols protect those unsaturated oils from oxidation, which is the actual scientifically-meaningful inclusion of vitamin E here — stability rather than topical benefit.

The clinical view

Dermatologists generally treat cleansing oils as low-risk, high-utility tools — they remove sunscreen and long-wear makeup more thoroughly than surfactant cleansers alone, which matters for anyone who wears daily SPF or pigmented products. For this specific oil, the medicated stearyl glycyrrhetinate is viewed favorably for its anti-inflammatory profile, though clinicians generally point out that the rinse-off format limits how much benefit any active in a cleanser can deliver. The bigger flags from a clinical standpoint are the added fragrance and BHT, both of which can provoke reactions in sensitized or rosacea-prone patients; these are common reasons a dermatologist might steer a patient toward a simpler fragrance-free oil cleanser. The brightening claim is treated with appropriate skepticism in clinical settings — a herbal extract in a 60-second cleanser is not the mechanism by which hyperpigmentation actually fades.

Formula

Key ingredients

  1. Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

    Listed first in the INCI, this licorice-derived anti-inflammatory is the medicated active that gives this oil its quasi-drug status in Japan. In a cleansing oil context, it's an unusual call — most cleansers rinse off before actives can do much — but it tempers the friction of massaging an oil over reactive skin and supports the rest of the Sekkisei line's brightening narrative.

    Not yet assessed
  2. Coix Lacryma-Jobi (Job's Tears) Seed Extract

    The signature Sekkisei botanical, used across the entire line to support an even-tone, less-dull appearance. In this oil it's delivered alongside sesame and safflower oils, which keeps the herb in skin contact during the massage phase rather than washing straight off.

    Not yet assessed
  3. Sesame Seed Oil

    A vitamin-E-rich emollient that does double duty: it dissolves makeup and sunscreen, and its lignans contribute mild antioxidant character. Pairs with the mineral-oil base to balance pure cleansing power with a softer post-rinse feel.

    Not yet assessed
  4. Plant-Derived Squalane

    Added near the end of the list as a skin-mimetic emollient that cushions the formula and helps prevent the tight, stripped feeling that mineral-oil cleansers can leave on dry skin. Why it's important here: this oil emulsifies aggressively, and the squalane is the brake.

    Not yet assessed
  5. Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

    Listed twice (synthetic dl-α-tocopherol and natural vitamin E), which stabilizes the unsaturated plant oils against oxidation — a real concern in a clear bottle of sesame and safflower oil sitting on a bathroom shelf.

    Not yet assessed
Full ingredient list 19 ingredients ShowHide

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Liquid Paraffin, Glyceryl Fatty Acid Ester, Glyceryl Triethylhexanoate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Isopropyl Myristate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isotridecyl Isononanoate, Heavy Liquid Isoparaffin, Tocopherol, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol (Natural Vitamin E), Coix Lacryma-Jobi Seed Extract, BHT, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance

Safety & formulation facts

  • Pregnancy safe
  • Not fragrance free
  • Alcohol free
  • Not oil free
  • Silicone free
  • Paraben free
  • Sulfate free
  • Not cruelty free
  • Not vegan
  • Not fungal-acne safe
Pore-clogging (comedogenic) isopropyl myristate
Potential irritants fragranceBHT
Common allergens fragrancesesame oil
Compatibility

Skin types & routine

Routine step cleanser
Time of day Night
Best season All year
Finish non-greasy, lightweight

Layering

Massage onto dry skin for 30–60 seconds before adding water to emulsify and rinsing. Follow with a low-pH water-based cleanser to clear any residue from the mineral oil and fragrance.

When to expect results

Immediate makeup and sunscreen removal in one pass; any meaningful 'brightening' effect from the herbal actives is incidental given the rinse-off format and would take weeks of consistent double-cleansing alongside the rest of a routine to perceive.

Pairs well with foaming-cleanserhydrating-toner

A routine built around it

Morning

  1. Water rinse or gentle cleanser
  2. Toner
  3. Serum
  4. Moisturizer
  5. Sunscreen

Night

  1. Kose Sekkisei Brightening Cleansing Oilthis product
  2. Foaming cleanser
  3. Toner
  4. Essence
  5. Moisturizer
Guidance

How to use it, and who it's for

How to use

Dispense one to two full pumps onto dry hands, then massage over completely dry skin for 30 to 60 seconds, focusing on areas with heavy makeup or sunscreen. Pay extra attention to the hairline and jawline where SPF tends to collect. When the makeup has lifted, wet your fingertips and add water in stages, massaging until the oil turns into a thin opaque milk. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, then follow with a low-pH water-based cleanser to clear any remaining mineral oil and fragrance. Use as the first step of an evening double cleanse; skip in the morning unless you slept in makeup. Avoid using on the eye area with extensions without confirming compatibility with your lash artist.

Is it worth the price?

At roughly $28 for 150 ml, this oil sits in an awkward middle slot. It's roughly twice the price of Kose's own Softymo Deep Cleansing Oil (also Japanese, also competent, larger bottle) and a fraction of what genuine luxury cleansing oils ask. What you're paying for is the Sekkisei brand equity, the medicated active, and slightly nicer packaging — not a transformative ingredient story. There's no larger value-size version of this specific SKU widely available outside Asia, so the per-ml math doesn't get better with bulk. The honest read is that fans of the Sekkisei line get genuine value because the cleanser slots into a routine they're already invested in, while a first-time buyer with no Sekkisei loyalty can match 80% of the performance at half the price.

Who should buy it

Anyone already invested in the Sekkisei routine who wants a brand-consistent first cleanse, daily SPF wearers who need reliable sunscreen removal, and combination-to-dry skin types who appreciate a cushioned post-rinse feel. It's also a smart pick if you wear long-wear makeup and want a cleanser that lifts it without scrubbing.

Who should skip it

Fragrance-reactive skin should look elsewhere — perfume is present and noticeable. Fungal-acne-prone complexions should skip the sesame and safflower oils. Strict clean-beauty adherents will object to the BHT, and budget-conscious shoppers will find Japanese drugstore alternatives that match the cleansing performance for half the spend.

Ready to try it?Kose Sekkisei Brightening Cleansing Oil · $28.00 · 150ml
Details

The product, in detail

Texture
Clear, medium-bodied oil that pours readily and warms slightly during massage; turns into a thin milky emulsion the moment water hits it.
Scent
Soft herbal-floral with a light powdery edge — distinctly Sekkisei, neither sweet nor sharp.
Packaging
Frosted plastic bottle with a sturdy pump that meters one full press into about a quarter-sized pool; the bottle is travel-friendly but the pump can lock awkwardly on long flights.
How long it lasts
About 3 months for a daily PM double-cleanser using one to two pumps per face.
Once opened
Use within 12 months · track your toss-by date →
Size
150ml
Made in
Japan

What the first two weeks feel like

First use is uneventful in the best way: massage on dry skin, watch eye makeup lift, add water, watch the oil go opaque, rinse clean. No tingling and no purging are expected. Within the first week, the main thing you'll notice is how much less your morning cleanser has to do.

The story behind it

Why it exists

Sekkisei launched in 1985 with a single brightening lotion built around Job's Tears extract and an herbal-medicine philosophy. As the line expanded, Kose added a cleansing oil so that the Sekkisei wardrobe could include step one of the routine; the medicated formulation lets it sit on Japanese pharmacy shelves alongside the rest of the brand's quasi-drug skincare.

About Kose Legacy Brand (20+ years)

Sekkisei has been a flagship Kose prestige line since the original Sekkisei Lotion launched in 1985, built around a herbal-extract brightening philosophy that predates the K-beauty wave by decades. The line has substantial Asian travel-retail traction and a long-running cult following, though its proprietary herbal blend has more anecdotal validation than published clinical data.

Brand founded 1946

Myth vs. reality

What people get wrong about it

MythThe brightening claim means this oil will fade dark spots on its own.

RealityIt's a rinse-off cleanser. Any brightening contribution from the herbal extract is incidental — the actual lightening work in a Sekkisei routine is done by the leave-on lotion and essence.

MythA cleansing oil with stearyl glycyrrhetinate is automatically gentle enough for any sensitive skin.

RealityThe medicated active is soothing on its own, but this formula also contains fragrance and BHT — reactive skin should patch test before committing.

FAQ

Questions people ask

Does Sekkisei Brightening Cleansing Oil actually brighten skin?

Not on its own. The Job's Tears extract and licorice derivative inside it are the same herbal actives the Sekkisei line uses across its leave-on products, but in a 60-second-and-rinse cleanser those ingredients have very little contact time. Treat it as a competent makeup remover that pairs nicely with the rest of a Sekkisei routine, not as a brightening treatment in its own right.

Is this oil safe for use with eyelash extensions?

Kose markets it as compatible with most extensions, and the formula avoids the strong silicones that typically break adhesive bonds. Still, lash artists vary in what they approve — if you spent money on extensions, confirm with your tech before swapping in any new oil cleanser.

How does the Brightening Cleansing Oil compare to the Sekkisei Treatment Cleansing Oil?

Both share the medicated stearyl glycyrrhetinate and the Sekkisei herbal botanicals, but the Treatment version uses a richer oil blend aimed at dry, mature skin, while the Brightening version reads as a slightly lighter all-rounder with a more pronounced herbal sensorial. Choose based on whether you want extra cushion or a quicker emulsification.

Will it clog pores?

Isopropyl myristate, which sits high on the list, is rated comedogenic on traditional scales, but in a rinse-off cleansing oil the dwell time is short. People with congestion-prone skin should still make sure to fully emulsify and follow with a second cleanser rather than wiping the oil off with a tissue.

Is the Sekkisei Brightening Cleansing Oil fragrance-free?

No. Fragrance is listed at the end of the INCI and it is noticeable on the skin during massage. The scent fades after rinsing, but anyone reactive to perfume should opt for an unfragranced double-cleanse first step.

Can I use it in the morning?

You can, but it's overkill. Cleansing oils shine after a day of sunscreen, makeup, and pollution — in the AM, a splash of water or a mild cleanser is plenty. Save this for evenings when you actually have something to dissolve.

Can I use the Sekkisei Brightening Cleansing Oil while pregnant or breastfeeding?

The active ingredients in this oil — botanical extracts, plant oils, and a licorice-derived anti-inflammatory — carry no specific pregnancy contraindications. As always, if you have concerns about a specific ingredient or are prone to fragrance reactions during pregnancy, run it past your OB.

Reviews

What shoppers tend to say

Recurring themes our editors read across retailer reviews — summaries in our words, not quotations, and not a substitute for a patch test.

Common praise

  • Removes heavy makeup and sunscreen in one pass
  • Emulsifies into a clean milky rinse
  • Subtle herbal scent feels spa-like
  • Doesn't leave a greasy film

Common complaints

  • Fragrance is noticeable for sensitive noses
  • Pricey versus drugstore Japanese oil cleansers
  • Mineral-oil-forward formula will not appeal to oil-purists
Notable endorsementsSekkisei line is a Japanese travel-retail mainstayLong-running @cosme presence
Related conditions DullnessBlackheads
Next stepCheck it against what you already useClashes, spacing and the right order, with everything on your shelf.