The science
This pad's brightening strategy employs five active ingredients targeting different points in the melanogenesis pathway, creating a multi-mechanism approach that reflects current dermatological thinking on hyperpigmentation treatment.
Niacinamide at 5% is the backbone of the formula. A landmark 2002 study in the British Journal of Dermatology demonstrated that topical niacinamide significantly reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanosome transfer — the final step where melanin-containing packages move from melanocytes to surrounding keratinocytes. Importantly, niacinamide doesn't inhibit melanin production itself, making it complementary to ingredients that do.
Glutathione works upstream of niacinamide through two mechanisms: it directly inhibits tyrosinase (the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis) and shifts melanin production from darker eumelanin toward lighter pheomelanin. A 2017 randomized controlled trial published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology found that topical glutathione improved melanin indices after 10 weeks of use, though optimal concentrations and delivery methods remain subjects of ongoing research.
Tranexamic acid addresses melanogenesis through an entirely different pathway — it inhibits plasminogen activation in the keratinocyte-melanocyte interaction. UV exposure triggers keratinocytes to release plasminogen activator, which stimulates melanocyte activity. By blocking this pathway, tranexamic acid reduces UV-triggered melanin overproduction. Multiple studies, including a 2012 trial in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, have demonstrated tranexamic acid's efficacy for melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
The dual vitamin C forms — ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside — provide both immediate and sustained antioxidant activity while directly inhibiting tyrosinase through copper chelation at the enzyme's active site. Ascorbyl glucoside is enzymatically converted to ascorbic acid by glucosidases in the skin, providing a time-release effect. A 2013 study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology confirmed ascorbyl glucoside's melanin-inhibiting efficacy comparable to hydroquinone at similar concentrations.
Capryloyl salicylic acid (LHA) is a lipophilic derivative of salicylic acid with enhanced skin penetration and reduced irritation potential. It accelerates desquamation — the shedding of surface skin cells — which both removes hyperpigmented cells and thins the stratum corneum to improve penetration of the other actives. Research published by L'Oreal's research division (which developed LHA) demonstrated its superior tolerability compared to standard salicylic acid.
References 3 ShowHide
- The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. — British Journal of Dermatology (2002)
- Glutathione as a skin whitening agent: Facts, myths, evidence and controversies. — Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology (2017)
- The efficacy of tranexamic acid in the treatment of melasma — Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2012)