The science
The chemistry of this cleanser is the chemistry of the mild syndet bar, transposed into a glycerin-rich solid, and the relevant literature is mature. Sodium cocoyl isethionate is the surfactant that defined the category: an acyl isethionate whose bulky, weakly charged head group forms large micelles that penetrate the stratum corneum poorly and bind minimally to keratin, which is why isethionate bars produce dramatically less protein denaturation, transepidermal water loss and irritation than soap in the standard forearm-wash and patch models. A 2004 review in Dermatologic Therapy on personal cleanser technology and clinical performance set out the hierarchy that formulators still work from, ranking soap-based bars as the harshest, syndet bars built on isethionate as the mildest, and showing that adding humectants and lipids to the cleanser base measurably improves post-wash hydration and barrier metrics. This formula sits at the mild end of that hierarchy on surfactant choice alone, and its lauryl betaine and coconut acid co-surfactants are there to build lather rather than to add cleansing aggression.
The unusual part is the base. Ordinary syndet bars are mostly surfactant with a few percent glycerin; this product inverts the ratio, listing glycerin first and water second, and uses silica dimethyl silylate and the isethionate's own low solubility to hold the mass solid. The consequence is that the humectant is delivered undiluted at the moment of washing and is left on the skin in quantity, an effect that the deposition literature associates with reduced after-wash tightness and higher corneometer readings, and that the brand's thirty-eight-person one-week panel recorded as immediate hydration in nearly all subjects. Panthenol, at seventh position, is a well-documented humectant and barrier-supporting agent that also survives rinsing in measurable amounts. The seed oils of blackcurrant, elderberry and lingonberry contribute gamma-linolenic and alpha-linolenic acids and tocopherol, which in a leave-on would be meaningful and in a rinse-off are chiefly responsible for slip. Fructooligosaccharides and a Leuconostoc radish-root ferment filtrate are the prebiotic and natural-preservative choices, each with supplier-level rather than clinical evidence. The formula's weakness is chemical too: bergamot, lemon and bitter orange peel oils supply limonene and pinene, terpenes that oxidise into sensitising hydroperoxides on exposure to air, so a mild surfactant system is paired with the fragrance materials most often responsible for cleanser-related contact dermatitis.
References 1 ShowHide
- Personal cleanser technology and clinical performance — Dermatologic Therapy (2004)