The science
The formula's structure is a classic oil-in-water lotion: water and glycerin as the continuous phase, apricot kernel and camellia seed oils as a light emollient phase, and cetearyl olivate with sorbitan olivate, a well-tolerated olive-derived emulsifier pair, holding the two together with cetearyl alcohol as a co-emulsifier and thickener. Apricot kernel oil is rich in oleic and linoleic acids and camellia seed oil in oleic acid, both absorbing quickly and reinforcing the stratum corneum's lipid film modestly. The humectant group is more sophisticated than the price implies: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and betaine draw water into the upper skin, and polyglutamic acid, a fermentation-derived polymer, forms a thin surface film that slows its evaporation. Hydrolyzed collagen contributes a similar film effect and nothing else, since collagen fragments do not penetrate.
The green tea component is best understood through its purified catechin. Epigallocatechin gallate is the principal polyphenol of green tea and the one with the most topical evidence; a review by Katiyar summarized human and animal studies in which topically applied green tea polyphenols reduced UV-induced erythema, oxidative stress, DNA damage and immunosuppression through antioxidant and immunomodulatory mechanisms (Current Drug Targets: Immune, Endocrine and Metabolic Disorders, 2003). Those effects were seen at defined concentrations in leave-on vehicles, which this lotion is; the concentration here is undisclosed, the accompanying leaf water is declared at only 1 percent, and no product-specific testing exists, so the reasonable expectation is a supportive antioxidant contribution rather than a measurable photoprotective one. Green tea is not a sunscreen substitute in any formulation.
The remaining botanicals, rosemary, centella, chamomile, skullcap and Polygonum cuspidatum, appear at trace positions and add antioxidant and anti-inflammatory names without a demonstrable dose; allantoin is a well-established mild anti-irritant. Lavender oil is the formula's main tolerability consideration: linalool and linalyl acetate oxidize to sensitizing hydroperoxides on exposure to air, and lavender is a recognized fragrance allergen, relevant in a product marketed to sensitive and acne-prone users. Chamomile is a secondary Asteraceae sensitizer. The brand's irritation-test and acne-prone-skin badges refer to in-house panel tests that are not published.
References 1 ShowHide
- Skin photoprotection by green tea: antioxidant and immunomodulatory effects — Current Drug Targets: Immune, Endocrine and Metabolic Disorders (2003)