The science
The evidence sits in the first thirty ingredients. Niacinamide at fifth position has a large clinical literature for improving hyperpigmentation, barrier lipid synthesis, sebum regulation and fine lines at 2 to 5 percent over eight to twelve weeks, and its placement here is consistent with such a dose. Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid whose larger, multi-hydroxyl structure penetrates the stratum corneum more slowly than glycolic acid, giving gentler exfoliation with humectant and antioxidant properties; the 2004 Cutis study of a polyhydroxy acid regimen found antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxy acid regimen with better tolerance, and recent corneometric work on gluconolactone at 10 and 30 percent confirms its moisturising effect, though the concentration here is undisclosed and certainly far lower. Sodium pyruvate contributes a mild additional keratolytic and metabolic activity, and the protease enzyme loosens surface corneocyte bonds at cosmetic levels; together they explain the gradual refinement users report. Adenosine is registered by the Korean regulator as a functional wrinkle ingredient at 0.04 percent with modest clinical support for fine-line improvement.
The vehicle is a humectant-rich, alcohol-carried gel. Xylitol, erythritol, glycosyl trehalose, saccharide isomerate, serine and panthenol raise stratum corneum hydration, and panthenol, allantoin and bisabolol have anti-irritant evidence that partly offsets the acids; denatured alcohol at third position speeds drying and enhances penetration of the actives but extracts lipid with repeated use on dry or sensitised skin.
The herbal and patented claims lack clinical support. LG's Pyrujuven complex and the Cheongibidan herbal blend have no published human trials as topical formulations, the flavonoids chrysin, quercetin and kaempferol and the mushroom extracts sit at label-minimum positions, and gold is inert. The risk profile is defined by the fragrance, which declares six of the twenty-six labelled allergens studied in the 2017 Contact Dermatitis multicentre patch-test series, applied over alcohol and three exfoliants that increase penetration; chrysanthellum and soybean extracts add minor allergen risk. Polyhydroxy acids raise photosensitivity less than alpha-hydroxy acids but daily sunscreen remains advised.
References 3 ShowHide
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen — Cutis (2004)
- Corneometric evaluation of skin moisture after application of 10% and 30% gluconolactone — Skin Research and Technology (2021)
- Non-mix fragrances are top sensitizers in consecutive dermatitis patients - a cross-sectional study of the 26 EU-labelled fragrance allergens — Contact Dermatitis (2017)