The science
The treatment has one clinically studied active and a plausible second. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is a synthetic fragment of the SNAP-25 protein designed to compete for the SNARE complex and reduce neurotransmitter release at the neuromuscular junction, thereby softening the muscle activity that folds expression lines; the 2013 randomised, placebo-controlled study in Chinese subjects in the American Journal of Clinical Dermatology reported a significant reduction in periorbital wrinkle measures over four weeks with the peptide versus placebo, and a 2017 randomised study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology combined it with tripeptide-10-citrulline with further improvement; the effects in both were modest, and skin penetration of the peptide to the depth required remains the open question. Its sixth position here is consistent with a meaningful cosmetic dose. Ginsenosides, the purified saponins of Panax ginseng, increase type I procollagen synthesis and reduce matrix metalloproteinase expression in fibroblast and photodamage models, and a purified fraction at fifth position represents a genuine dose; no clinical trial of topical ginsenosides for wrinkles has been published.
The vehicle contributes the immediate effect. Dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexarosinate is a large, film-forming ester that lays a semi-occlusive layer over a line, holding water beneath it and plumping the surface, and the PEG-modified silicones spread that film and scatter light, which explains the softening visible within minutes and its reversal on cleansing.
The remaining label is unsupported or inert. Nutmeg extract contains macelignan and myristicin with laboratory anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity and a small in-vitro collagen literature, but no clinical evidence for wrinkles and a documented, if uncommon, sensitising potential; Zanthoxylum piperitum fruit extract is a mild counter-irritant; gold, synthetic fluorphlogopite, titanium dioxide and iron oxide are colour; oyster shell, gall extract, poplar bud and the fifty-odd Cheongibidan herbs have laboratory data at most. The fragrance is undeclared beyond the word on the retail listing but shares the line's composition, which elsewhere declares six labelled allergens, and application near the eyes raises the stakes; chrysanthellum and soybean extracts are minor allergens.
References 2 ShowHide
- The anti-wrinkle efficacy of argireline, a synthetic hexapeptide, in Chinese subjects: a randomized, placebo-controlled study — American Journal of Clinical Dermatology (2013)
- The efficacy study of the combination of tripeptide-10-citrulline and acetyl hexapeptide-3. A prospective, randomized controlled study — Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2017)