The science
The mask's measurable work is that of an occlusive overnight cream. Glycerin, butylene glycol, panthenol and beta-glucan are humectants that raise stratum corneum water content, and squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride and shea butter are emollient and occlusive lipids, the 2017 International Journal of Molecular Sciences review of topical plant oils covering shea's fatty-acid and triterpene profile among the barrier-supporting oils; applied in a thick layer for eight hours, they reduce transepidermal water loss and produce the softening and plumping seen at the morning rinse, which on the neck's thin, lipid-poor skin is a meaningful hydration effect. Adenosine is registered by the Korean regulator as a functional wrinkle ingredient at 0.04 percent, with modest clinical support for fine-line improvement over two to three months of daily use.
The firming claim rests on hydrolysed vegetable protein at a declared 8,795 ppm. Plant-protein hydrolysates are hygroscopic film-formers that bind water on the surface and contract as they dry, producing a temporary tightening that reverses on cleansing; there is no evidence that topical hydrolysed proteins alter dermal elastin, and the ProElast name should be read as marketing. The glycoproteins at 1.716 ppm are below any level at which an effect could be expected. The Gongjin Solution extracts, ganoderma, angelica, cornus, asparagus, thyme and kaempferia, have laboratory data on constituents and no clinical evidence as a topical blend at these doses.
The risks follow the fragrance and the occlusion. Geraniol, linalool, limonene and citronellol are among the twenty-six labelled allergens studied in the 2017 Contact Dermatitis multicentre patch-test series, and prolonged occlusion is the condition under which fragrance sensitisation is most likely; shea butter and cetyl ethylhexanoate carry comedogenic potential for acne-prone users. Adenosine, the humectants and the lipids are well tolerated, and the formula is alcohol- and paraben-free.
References 2 ShowHide
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils — International Journal of Molecular Sciences (2017)
- Non-mix fragrances are top sensitizers in consecutive dermatitis patients - a cross-sectional study of the 26 EU-labelled fragrance allergens — Contact Dermatitis (2017)