The science
Pomegranate has been the line's signature since 2009, and the laboratory case for it is older than the cream. In a 2006 study in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology, Aslam, Lansky and Varani tested fractions of the fruit on human skin cells and found a division of labour that is directly relevant to this jar: pomegranate seed oil — the lipophilic fraction, and the form used here — stimulated keratinocyte proliferation in monolayer culture and produced a mild thickening of the epidermis in skin organ culture without disrupting orderly differentiation, but had no effect on dermal fibroblasts; it was the aqueous peel extract, not the seed oil, that stimulated type I procollagen synthesis and inhibited matrix metalloproteinase-1 in fibroblasts. That is cell and organ-culture evidence rather than a clinical trial, and its implication is precise: the seed oil in this cream is an epidermal ingredient — renewal and surface condition — and not a collagen-building one, which is a reasonable scientific reason for a brand to stop calling the cream 'firming'. The oil's distinctive fatty acid, punicic acid, a conjugated linolenic isomer, also carries antioxidant activity that helps protect the sesame-and-shea base.
The maca hydrolysate has a thinner record. Hydrolyzed Lepidium meyenii root is produced by enzymatic breakdown of maca root protein into peptides and amino acids; such plant hydrolysates function as humectants and film-forming conditioners, and maca extracts have laboratory antioxidant data, but there is no independent published trial of a maca hydrolysate for wrinkles or radiance. Weleda's four-week in-use study of 31–32 subjects — 97, 87 and 78 percent agreement on healthy look, smoothness and radiance — is a consumer-perception study without a vehicle control, and its results are consistent with the hydrating effect of the emulsion as a whole rather than attributable to any single ingredient. Olive leaf extract contributes oleuropein and hydroxytyrosol, polyphenols with well-characterised antioxidant activity that, together with tocopherol, are the plausible reason a jar of unsaturated oils stays fresh.
The emulsion itself is where the well-established science lives: sesame and sunflower oils supply linoleic acid, shea butter and carnauba wax an occlusive seal, glycerin and betaine humectancy, and macadamia's palmitoleic acid a lipid close to sebum — a humectant-under-occlusive structure that reduces overnight water loss and explains the softness users report by morning. The fragrance is the formulation's evidence-based caution: limonene, linalool, geraniol, citral, coumarin and benzyl benzoate are among the 26 fragrance allergens the EU requires to be declared, and their natural essential-oil origin does not lower their sensitisation potential.