The science
A body butter's value is in its occlusive and emollient load, and this formula's is unusually high. Placing sunflower seed oil, cocoa seed butter and shea butter ahead of water on the label indicates a lipid-dominant emulsion, closer to a water-in-oil butter than to the oil-in-water lotions most body moisturizers are, and the three lipids complement one another: sunflower oil is roughly two-thirds linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that reinforces the lamellar organisation of barrier lipids and reduces transepidermal water loss in controlled studies; cocoa butter is a saturated, room-temperature-solid triglyceride mix that melts near skin temperature into a durable occlusive film; and shea butter supplies triglycerides plus a high unsaponifiable fraction of triterpene esters and phytosterols with documented emollient and mild anti-inflammatory activity. Glycerin at fifth position and betaine add humectancy, drawing water into the stratum corneum that the butters then hold, which is the mechanism behind the lasting softness reviewers describe and the reason application to damp skin works best. Stearic and palmitic acids with a citrate emulsifier and two gums structure the butter and contribute further occlusion. The four botanicals have in-vitro and traditional anti-inflammatory data, including a 2013 rat sunburn model in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology in which a Viola tricolor gel reduced inflammation, but no clinical evidence at cosmetic doses in a body butter, and rosemary extract is a minor contact sensitiser. Ethanol at fourteenth position is the natural-certification preservative; buffered by this much lipid its barrier effect is small on intact skin but it accounts for stinging on freshly shaved or abraded skin. The fragrance is a natural essential-oil blend with four constituents declared under European allergen-labelling rules, limonene, linalool, benzyl benzoate and geraniol, and on the body its long contact time and large application area make repeated exposure meaningful for sensitisation-prone individuals. The butter contains no keratolytic, so its effect on keratosis pilaris is limited to softening. The science supports it as a highly effective occlusive-emollient for dry body skin whose fragrance and alcohol are its tolerability limits.
References 1 ShowHide
- Antiinflammatory effects of Viola tricolor gel in a model of sunburn in rats and the gel stability study — Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2013)