The science
The ingredient that separates this from the brand's face creams is the Acmella blend, and its evidence is worth stating precisely. Acmella oleracea contains spilanthol, an N-alkylamide that produces a tingling, numbing sensation on mucous membranes and has been marketed in cosmetics as a topical relaxant that smooths expression lines. The clinical data are small and short. In a 2025 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Savić and colleagues formulated an Acmella oleracea extract into a glycolipid-emulsified serum and ran a randomised, reference-controlled half-face trial over two weeks, measuring skin biophysical properties and microrelief around the eyes and mouth; they reported beneficial changes in facial skin appearance and, in a permeation study through pig ear skin, no passage of spilanthol into the receptor medium — evidence for surface-level action without systemic absorption. Those findings concern the face, over two weeks, at a formulation-specific dose. Applied to the body, where there is no expression musculature to relax, the plausible effect is a transient tightened feel and a slight smoothing of surface microrelief while the product is on the skin, and the blend's position after the preservative in this list keeps even that modest.
The peptides follow the mechanism Asterwood relies on across its range: palmitoyl tripeptide-1 as a collagen-fragment mimic that signals fibroblasts to rebuild matrix, and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 as a suppressor of interleukin-6-driven inflammatory collagen loss. Supplier studies describe modest wrinkle-depth reductions over two to three months at 3% of the Matrixyl 3000 blend; here the blend sits twelfth, and on body skin — thicker on the arms, thinner on the chest — the realistic expectation is a subtle softening of fine surface lines on the décolletage over a season, not firming of laxity, which is a dermal-volume problem beyond any topical.
The better-evidenced work is done by the base. Sodium hyaluronate and algae polysaccharides at seventh and eighth bind water at the surface; caprylic/capric triglyceride, grape seed oil and squalane supply light, fast-absorbing lipids that reduce transepidermal water loss without occlusion; niacinamide at thirteenth supports barrier lipid synthesis and evens tone at a modest dose. Together they explain the two-week improvement in crepey texture users describe — hydration plumping the stratum corneum — which is real, repeatable and not firming. The 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid and centella near the end are antioxidant and soothing support; the single ceramide NP, listed last, is a trace.
References 1 ShowHide
- Preliminary safety and in vivo efficacy of Acmella oleracea extract-loaded glycolipid emulsion serum-Effects on ocular irritation, dermal absorption, and facial skin biophysical and microrelief properties — International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2025)