The science
The active with the best evidence here is bakuchiol. A meroterpene phenol from Psoralea corylifolia that shares no structure with retinol but modulates similar retinoid-responsive gene expression in skin, it was compared head-to-head with 0.5 percent retinol in a 2019 prospective, randomised, double-blind study in the British Journal of Dermatology, which found the two comparable in reducing wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation over twelve weeks, with bakuchiol causing less scaling and stinging; at thirteenth position in this formula it is placed where a cosmetic working dose would sit, though LG discloses none. Retinol at sixty-third, behind tocopherol, is present at a trace that cannot contribute retinoid activity; its inclusion supports the label rather than the effect, and it remains a reason for pregnancy caution.
The supporting actives have partial support. Niacinamide at fourteenth is consistent with a low working dose and has evidence for barrier lipid synthesis, pigment transfer and irritation buffering. Copper tripeptide-1, GHK-Cu, has a large laboratory literature on collagen synthesis and wound-signalling pathways, summarised in a 2015 BioMed Research International review, and thin clinical data in cosmetics; adenosine is a Korean-registered functional wrinkle ingredient with modest trial support. Asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid are centella's active triterpenes with anti-inflammatory and collagen data; escin is a de-puffing saponin with vascular evidence in oral use and weak topical data. The barrier lipids, shea, squalane, meadowfoam, ceramide NP, cholesterol and linoleic, linolenic and palmitic acids, are well characterised and explain the rapid softening of periorbital crepe.
LG's clinical claim rests on a thirty-two-participant, one-week consumer perception study reporting ninety to one hundred percent agreement with firming and line statements, which is not instrumental evidence and cannot distinguish hydration from remodelling. The sensitisation risk is real: orange peel, lime, geranium and rosemary oils declare limonene, citronellol, geraniol, citral and linalool, all among the twenty-six labelled allergens studied in the 2017 Contact Dermatitis multicentre patch-test series, on periorbital skin that is thin and reactive; lime oil is additionally a source of phototoxic furocoumarins, though at a trace here. The formula contains no parabens.
References 3 ShowHide
- Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing — British Journal of Dermatology (2019)
- GHK Peptide as a Natural Modulator of Multiple Cellular Pathways in Skin Regeneration — BioMed Research International (2015)
- Non-mix fragrances are top sensitizers in consecutive dermatitis patients - a cross-sectional study of the 26 EU-labelled fragrance allergens — Contact Dermatitis (2017)