The science
Two pieces of formulation science explain this stick, and one piece of clinical science limits it. The first is the base. Sodium stearate is a fatty-acid soap that, above a threshold concentration, forms a rigid gel network in a water-and-polyol solvent, the same chemistry that gives clear antiperspirant sticks their translucent solidity; in this product it sets aloe leaf juice and glycerin into a bar that melts slightly on skin contact and deposits a humectant film. The second is delivery. UV filters such as avobenzone and octocrylene are lipophilic and would separate from a water gel, so the formula uses safflower oleosomes, the intact oil-storage bodies of the seed with their phospholipid-and-oleosin membrane, which stay dispersed in the aqueous gel and rupture under shear as the stick is rubbed, releasing the filters into a continuous film. Oleosome delivery has been explored in the cosmetic literature as a way to carry oil-soluble actives in low-oil systems, and it is why a water-feel stick can still meet an SPF 50 test.
The filter system itself is conventional and well documented. Avobenzone provides the UVA-I protection and is photounstable on its own; a 2010 Photochemical and Photobiological Sciences paper on filter-filter interactions describes octocrylene quenching avobenzone's excited state, the stabilisation that lets the 5 percent octocrylene here protect the 2.5 percent avobenzone over hours of exposure. Homosalate and octisalate add UVB absorption and solvency. Because the individual doses are modest, the labelled SPF depends on butyloctyl salicylate as a booster and, above all, on the applied thickness, which is the point the microbiology of a stick cannot fix.
The limiting clinical science is allergy. Octocrylene has become one of the more frequently positive sunscreen filters in European patch-test series, and the fragrance, though declared as individual plant-derived molecules, includes benzyl acetate, nerolidol and vanillin, which are ordinary fragrance allergens whatever their origin. A 2017 Contact Dermatitis multicentre study patch-testing the twenty-six labelled fragrance allergens found natural-origin constituents among the most common positives, which is the evidence base for steering reactive skin away from this stick regardless of how mild its glycerin gel feels.
References 2 ShowHide
- Filter-filter interactions. Photostabilization, triplet quenching and reactivity with singlet oxygen — Photochemical & Photobiological Sciences (2010)
- Non-mix fragrances are top sensitizers in consecutive dermatitis patients - a cross-sectional study of the 26 EU-labelled fragrance allergens — Contact Dermatitis (2017)