Japanese pore care has long been built on cleansing oils: massage oil into dry skin, loosen the sebum plugs, emulsify, rinse. Keana Nadeshiko, Ishizawa Lab's cult 'pore princess' line, sells that kind of product too. The Baking Soda Pore Cleansing Gel is its alternative for people who dislike oil on their faces, or whose skin reacts badly to it. It does an oil's job without a drop of oil, and understanding how is the key to using it well.
The work is done by three PEG glyceryl esters: PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate and PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate. These are water-soluble cleansing agents with an oily side and a water-loving side. Massaged over dry skin, they grab makeup, sunscreen and sebum; when water is added, they turn the whole mix into a milky emulsion that rinses away completely. That is why the gel can remove makeup without leaving the slick film some cleansing oils leave behind.
Baking soda, sodium bicarbonate, is the line's signature and appears sixth, listed by Ishizawa as a cleansing ingredient. Here it is dissolved rather than gritty, so it does not scrub. Its contribution is a mild alkalinity that can help soften the waxy, keratin-rich plugs that make up blackheads and sebaceous filaments. In a product that stays on the skin for a minute or so, that effect is real but modest; the heavy lifting is done by the cleansing esters.
The supporting cast is thoughtful. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, a licorice derivative with anti-inflammatory activity, sits right after the baking soda, a sensible counterweight to an alkaline ingredient. Dipropylene glycol, glycosyl trehalose and hydrogenated starch hydrolysate are humectants that keep the gel slippy and prevent a stripped feeling. Hot spring water and cucumber extract add a little marketing charm. There is fragrance, listed last.
In use, the gel is clear and springy. It spreads easily over dry skin and, as you massage, you can feel makeup and sunscreen loosen. Adding a splash of water turns it milky, and it rinses off cleanly. The nose and chin often feel noticeably smoother afterwards, which is what pore-care fans are looking for. Most people will follow it with a foaming cleanser as a second step, particularly after heavy sunscreen.
The tube itself is classic Keana Nadeshiko: white with a bright red cap and the line's round blue mascot, a cartoon woman with dotted pores on her nose, rubbing her cheek. The Japanese text promises a 'round-and-round massage' makeup removal that tackles both rough strawberry-seed pores and bumpy orange-peel texture. It is a charmingly literal piece of packaging, and the massage instruction is worth following: slow circular movements for thirty seconds over the nose and chin give the cleansing esters time to work into the sebum plugs, which is where any pore benefit comes from. A quick swipe followed by an immediate rinse leaves most of that potential unused.
Because there are no oils, the gel is compatible with fungal-acne-prone skin, where certain oils can feed the yeast involved. It also appeals to people who simply dislike the feel of oil cleansers, and to those with oily skin who find cleansing oils leave them feeling greasy.
There are limitations. Waterproof mascara and very long-wear products may need a dedicated eye remover; water-based gels are generally less forgiving there than oils. The fragrance is light but present, which is worth noting for sensitive skin and use around the eyes. And while baking soda is a well-understood ingredient, it is alkaline; people with rosacea, eczema or a compromised barrier may find any alkaline cleanser uncomfortable. For that group, a fragrance-free, low-pH remover is a safer choice.
It is also worth setting expectations about blackheads. Cleansing gels and oils help soften and loosen sebum plugs, and nightly use can make pores look cleaner, but blackheads refill. Long-term control usually requires a chemical exfoliant like salicylic acid, or a retinoid, used consistently. This gel is a good first step in that routine, not a replacement for it.
English-language reviews are scarce, though the Keana Nadeshiko line is well known in Japanese drugstores and on import sites. Ishizawa publishes the full ingredient list with the purpose of each ingredient, which makes the formula easy to assess.
To use it, apply a cherry-sized amount to dry skin with dry hands, massage gently for about thirty seconds with extra attention to the nose and chin, then add a little water, massage again until milky, and rinse thoroughly. Follow with a gentle foaming cleanser if you wore heavy sunscreen or makeup. Use it in the evening, or in the morning if you want a gentle refresh.
On value, around seventeen dollars for 100g from a US importer is more than its Japanese shelf price, but reasonable compared with many makeup-removing cleansers. A tube lasts six to eight weeks of nightly use.
The bottom line: this is a well-designed oil-free alternative to cleansing oil, with a pore-care twist and a comfortable finish. Oily, combination and fungal-acne-prone skin will find a lot to like. Sensitive skin should check the fragrance first.
