The science
The science in this gel is a study in how to clean without stripping, and the two levers are surfactant selection and what remains after rinsing. Surfactant irritation scales with the concentration of free monomers able to penetrate the stratum corneum and with the charge density at the skin surface; both are reduced by blending several mild surfactants rather than relying on one strong anionic. Sodium cocoamphoacetate is an amphoteric imidazoline derivative with very low irritation potential that forms mixed micelles with anionics and lowers their free-monomer concentration; sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl glutamate are N-acyl amino acids with bulkier head groups than sulfates and correspondingly gentler protein interaction; lauryl glucoside and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate are sugar-derived non-ionic and mildly anionic agents that add foam without adding harshness. A 2010 patch-test study in Dermatitis of eight surfactants commonly used in skin cleansers, run on 105 patients, found no irritant reactions at use concentrations and identified amino-acid anionics and amphoterics as the best tolerated of the set, which is the category this blend is built from.
The second lever is substantivity, the tendency of ingredients to stay on skin through rinsing. Glycerin and diglycerin partition into the upper stratum corneum during the wash and reduce the surfactants' extraction of lipids while they are there; trimethylglycine betaine is an osmolyte that protects cells against surfactant-induced stress and is used specifically to reduce the stinging that dry, fissured skin reports with washes. Saccharide isomerate, a plant-derived carbohydrate complex, binds to lysine residues in keratin through a mechanism its manufacturer has characterised as lasting through multiple washes, and it is the ingredient behind the claim of a protective film; the supporting data is supplier-generated but the binding mechanism is not contested. Honey contributes reducing sugars that act as humectants; a 2026 systematic review in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that the five controlled trials on cosmetic honey point to hydration benefits in leave-on products at 5 to 10 percent, while noting a small evidence base, and in a rinse-off gel its role is a softer after-feel rather than measurable hydration. Nuxe's own data is a 32-volunteer satisfaction panel at first use and at 28 days, consistent with the ingredient physics but not a controlled trial.
References 2 ShowHide
- Irritant and sensitizing potential of eight surfactants commonly used in skin cleansers: an evaluation of 105 patients — Dermatitis (2010)
- Efficacy of Honey as A Moisturizing Ingredient in Cosmetic Formulations: A Systematic Review of Clinical Trials — Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2026)