The science
Skin Food Light is a study in what reformulating an old occlusive balm into an emulsion does to its function. The original is close to anhydrous, with lanolin at third position providing a lanolin-wax film that reduces transepidermal water loss powerfully but sits on the surface; the Light version moves lanolin to fourteenth and introduces glyceryl stearate citrate and cetearyl alcohol to build an oil-in-water emulsion, which lowers occlusion somewhat but allows the oils to spread thinly and absorb, and adds glycerin at third position for humectancy the balm largely lacked. Sunflower seed oil remains the principal emollient; it is roughly two-thirds linoleic acid, an essential fatty acid that skin cannot synthesise and that controlled studies show supports barrier lipid organisation and reduces water loss when applied topically, in contrast to oleic-rich oils that can disrupt it. Beeswax, cocoa butter and shea butter supply the occlusive fraction in the emulsion: beeswax contributes long-chain esters that form a semi-occlusive film, cocoa butter adds saturated triglycerides that are solid at room temperature and rank moderately on comedogenicity scales, and shea butter contributes triglycerides and unsaponifiable phytosterols with documented emollient and mild anti-inflammatory effects. Lanolin retains a small role and its well-documented allergen status. Ethanol at fourth position is the natural-certification preservative; in leave-on emulsions ethanol at meaningful levels has measurable delipidising and barrier-disrupting effects on repeated application, which the high lipid load here mitigates but does not remove, and it accounts for the transient cooling and the tightness reported by a minority of dry-skinned users. The four botanicals, Viola tricolor, rosemary, chamomile and calendula, have in-vitro and animal-model anti-inflammatory data, including a 2013 rat sunburn study in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology showing a Viola tricolor gel reduced inflammation, but no clinical evidence at these levels in a cream; rosemary extract is a minor sensitiser. Lactic acid at eighteenth position adjusts pH and is not at an exfoliating concentration. The fragrance is a natural essential-oil blend with three declared European-labelled allergens. The science supports Skin Food Light as an effective emollient-and-occlusive cream for dry skin with a well-chosen fatty-acid profile, whose alcohol, fragrance and comedogenic butters define its tolerability limits.
References 1 ShowHide
- Antiinflammatory effects of Viola tricolor gel in a model of sunburn in rats and the gel stability study — Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2013)