A product that claims to do four jobs is usually great at one of them. MARA's Algae Enzyme Cleansing Oil is marketed as a makeup remover, a light enzyme peel, a dermaplaning oil and a gua sha oil. It won an Allure Best of Beauty award in 2024 and has become the brand's best-selling product since its launch in early 2020. Its real talent, though, is the first job on the list, and understanding why helps decide whether it is worth $58.
MARA was founded in Los Angeles in 2018 by Allison McNamara, who launched with a single algae face oil. The brand's identity revolves around seaweed and algae, which it sources from wild harvests in France and Ireland, and the cleansing oil follows that theme. But look at the ingredient list and its structure is classic cleansing oil. Jojoba seed oil comes first, followed by caprylic/capric triglyceride, sunflower seed oil, moringa seed oil and squalane. Jojoba is a liquid wax whose structure resembles human sebum, which makes it excellent at dissolving makeup, sunscreen and the skin's own oils. Caprylic/capric triglyceride adds a light, slippery feel. Then come two emulsifiers, polyglyceryl-3 laurate and polyglyceryl-2 caprate, which are what make this a cleanser rather than a face oil. When water hits the skin, they turn the oil milky and allow it to rinse away cleanly, carrying makeup and grime with it.
This is the part MARA has done well. Reviewers consistently praise how easily it removes long-wear foundation, waterproof mascara and mineral sunscreen in one cleanse, and how cleanly it rinses without leaving a greasy film. Skin feels soft and comfortable afterwards rather than stripped, which is exactly what a good oil cleanser should achieve.
The second job, the enzyme peel, is where the claims outrun the formula. The 'quatre enzyme' complex includes papaya extract, bromelain from pineapple, a lactobacillus-pumpkin ferment and grapefruit extract. Proteolytic enzymes such as papain and bromelain can loosen the bonds between dead skin cells, providing gentle exfoliation. However, enzymes need water to be active, and here they are suspended in an anhydrous oil. They only start working once the product is emulsified with water, by which point it is usually being rinsed off. MARA suggests leaving the oil on for 15 minutes as a light peel, which gives them more time, but these ingredients appear after the emulsifiers, silica and aloe, so concentrations are low. Any exfoliating effect is mild at best, and nowhere near a dedicated enzyme or acid exfoliant.
The third and fourth jobs, dermaplaning slip and gua sha massage, are really just uses for any oil. The formula provides good glide, but so would almost any facial oil. If you dermaplane, it is worth avoiding the enzyme leave-on step on freshly shaved skin, since the barrier is temporarily more vulnerable.
The algae extracts, kelp, spirulina and Irish moss, are present in small amounts. They have antioxidant and moisturizing properties in laboratory work, but in a rinse-off product, their contribution is minimal. Moringa and chia, named on the bottle, contribute emollience, although chia sits near the end of the list.
The scent comes from bergamot oil and grapefruit, giving the oil a fresh citrus note. Bergamot oil can contain bergapten, a compound that makes skin more sensitive to sunlight, although many cosmetic suppliers now use bergapten-free grades, and MARA does not specify which it uses. In a rinse-off cleanser used at night, phototoxicity is unlikely to be a practical concern. Limonene, a fragrance component that becomes more allergenic as it oxidises, also appears. Combined with chamomile and the enzymes, these ingredients mean people with reactive or rosacea-prone skin should patch-test, especially before trying the 15-minute leave-on method.
The emulsifier polyglyceryl-3 laurate and the plant oils also make this a poor choice for anyone with fungal acne, since fatty esters and oils can feed Malassezia yeast. People with oily or acne-prone skin can use it as a first cleanse but will usually benefit from a gentle water-based second cleanse.
The presentation is genuinely lovely: a weighty glass bottle with a navy-to-aqua gradient, a gold collar and a pump, alongside smaller travel sizes. That is part of what you are paying for.
At $58 for 120 ml, this is an expensive cleanser for something that is on your skin for a minute. Two pumps per night give roughly three months of use, but similarly effective cleansing oils exist at a fraction of the price, because the core performance comes from jojoba, triglycerides and emulsifiers, all inexpensive. The enzymes, algae and packaging add a sense of luxury and a few mild extras rather than a different level of performance.
MARA is an established brand with an award-winning product here, and the cleansing oil does its main job very well. For dry, normal or combination skin that wears heavy makeup or sunscreen and enjoys a luxurious ritual, it is satisfying to use. For sensitive skin, fungal-acne-prone skin or anyone focused on value, it is hard to justify.
