The science
The claim that separates this cream from the rest of its range — radiance and a more even tone — rests on niacinamide, and the evidence for topical niacinamide on photoaged facial skin is unusually good for a cosmetic ingredient. In a 2005 paper in Dermatologic Surgery, Bissett, Oblong and Berge reported a double-blind, left-right randomised study in which 50 women with clinical signs of photoaging applied 5 percent niacinamide to one half of the face and its vehicle to the other, twice daily for 12 weeks, with facial imaging and instrumental measures at four-week intervals. The niacinamide side showed significant reductions in fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness and sallowness, and an improvement in elasticity measured by cutometry. The proposed mechanisms — inhibition of melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, increased dermal collagen and epidermal barrier protein synthesis via the NAD-dependent pathways niacinamide feeds, and reduced glycation-related yellowing — are consistent with the 'more luminous' and 'more even' impressions Nuxe's panel reported at 28 days. Two caveats apply directly to this product: the trial used a disclosed 5 percent, and this cream's dose is unstated, though its eighth position ahead of the shea butter argues for a functional rather than token level; and the trial's endpoints were reached at 8 to 12 weeks, so the brand's one-month satisfaction figures describe an earlier, perceptual stage.
The emollient system supports rather than competes with the active. Coco-caprylate and C10-18 triglycerides are dry-feel esters that carry the cream and set the slip; shea butter, jojoba seed oil and squalane at ninth through twelfth supply occlusive triglycerides, sebum-like wax esters and a saturated hydrocarbon that together lower transepidermal water loss without the heaviness of the rich version; glycerin at third is the humectant beneath them; avocado and rosehip oils add oleic, linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids for the barrier's lamellar lipids; tocopherol near the end stabilises them. Niacinamide is itself a barrier-supporting ingredient, increasing ceramide and free fatty acid synthesis in keratinocytes, so its pairing with a lipid base is coherent. Microcrystalline cellulose and cellulose gum provide the immediate optical smoothing.
The Alfa [3R] trio — hyaluronic acid twenty-first, alfalfa (Medicago sativa) extract twenty-fourth, daylily (Hemerocallis fulva) extract twenty-sixth — sits after the preservatives; the hyaluronic acid is a surface humectant at that level, and the brand's own footnote for the trio's mechanism is an in-vitro test. Seven fragrance allergens are declared, applied twice daily as a leave-on.
References 1 ShowHide
- Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance — Dermatologic Surgery (2005)