The science
The most important anti-ageing evidence relevant to this product concerns its sunscreen. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen use, compared with discretionary use, was shown in a randomised trial of Australian adults, published by Hughes and colleagues in the Annals of Internal Medicine in 2013, to reduce measured skin ageing over four and a half years, and the mechanism is straightforward: ultraviolet A penetrates to the dermis and drives the collagen breakdown and elastin damage that produce wrinkles and laxity, while UVB causes the surface damage and pigmentation of photoageing. Avobenzone is the only monograph filter with strong UVA-I absorbance and it is stabilised here by octocrylene at 7.5 percent, comfortably above the ratio needed; butyloctyl salicylate improves the film and keeps avobenzone in solution; homosalate and octisalate supply UVB. The PA++++ grade indicates a high UVA protection factor under the Japanese method. A formula that reaches SPF 50 with a 22.5 percent filter load is efficient, and a formula comfortable enough for daily use on mature skin achieves the adherence that the trial evidence depends on.
The cosmetic actives are more modest. The natural-moisturising-factor components, urea, amino acids, trehalose, inositol, taurine, betaine and sodium PCA, raise stratum corneum hydration and flexibility, and hydrated skin reflects light more evenly and shows fewer fine lines; this is a reversible, short-term effect that recurs with each application. Bisabolol and allantoin have anti-irritant data, and panthenol supports barrier recovery, which suits skin using a retinoid at night. Lactic acid at the level implied by its listing after glycerin acts as a humectant, since lactate is itself an NMF component, rather than as an exfoliant. Chlorella vulgaris extract, the presumed bio-retinoid, is rich in amino acids, peptides and carotenoids; supplier-sponsored in-vitro work reports stimulation of collagen synthesis and inhibition of collagen-degrading enzymes in fibroblast cultures, and there is no peer-reviewed clinical evidence that a topical chlorella extract produces retinoid-like changes in human skin. The term bio-retinoid has no regulatory definition. The sensitisation profile is set by the fragrance, with citronellol, linalyl acetate and tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes declared, and by octocrylene; cocoglycerides, lauric acid and myristic acid carry mild comedogenic ratings in classical assays, relevant for acne-prone users.
References 1 ShowHide
- Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial — Annals of Internal Medicine (2013)